Kolkata's Iconic Mishti Para: A Sweet Trail
By Sibendu Das
There's a reason why the legendary Simla mishti para is known as the "sweetest part of Kolkata". Along its narrow stretch, no fewer than 10 heritage sweet shops jostle for space and the mishti connoisseur's favour. Here are the finest sweet shops in Kolkata's mishti para that you need to visit.
*Some restaurants listed in this trail serve non-vegetarian food, but have been added because they have good vegetarian options on their menu as well.
Mahamaya Mistanna Bhandar
Most of thesemishtishops are so old that the current owners can hardly remember the year of establishment. Usually being run by the third or fourth generation members of the families, some of these shops are, on an average, at least 80 to 100 years old. Same goes for Mahamaya, which was started by amoira(a rough equivalent of a confectioner) Bharat Chandra Ghosh some eight-odd decades ago.Tiffin
Comparatively a newer establishment in themishti para, Tiffin lives up to its name. An ensemble cast of both traditional Bengalimishtifaves like Rosogolla and Sandesh as well as North Indianmithailike Gulab Jamun and Kaju Barfi sit pretty on the shelves, with an elaborate list of savouries such as Club Kachori and Khaman Dhokla on the side. My treat: warm and syrupy discs of Malpoa, Rs 8 per piece. As the slightly burnt and crunchy outer ring of the typical North Indian pancake gave way to a soft and succulent interior with the occasional bite of amouri dana (saunf), my sweet tooth thanked me profusely.Ghosh Sweets
Current owner Chhaya Ghosh has been born and brought up in thismishti para. Married into one of themoirafamilies, she has inherited her father-in-law’smishtishop, which is “at least more than 70 years old”. Rosogolla, Tok Doi, Sandesh like Kheer Kadam and Mishti Singara are quite popular at this address.Choudhary Snacks
In the midst of all these Bengalimishtishops, Methura Prasad Chowdhury had opened a small counter in 1980, selling typical North Indian snacks andmithaislike Imarti, Moong Ke Laddoo, Gulab Jamun and Khasta Kachori. Run by the current owner Permish Kumar Chaudhary, this small shop does pretty brisk business, notwithstanding the competition from its Bengali big brothers all around.Sadhan Chandra Mullick
Established in 1986, this shop’s connect to heritage fame is the fact that it was actually a part of another older establishment a few blocks ahead: Subhodh Chandra Mullick. With time, siblings went ahead with separate business plans and hence was born Sadhan Chandra Mullick in 1986. Current owner Debashish Mullick, 60, sits with his otherkarigars(artisans) to make and mould an array of Bengalimishtidelicacies in an open workshop which you can catch a glimpse of from the road.Girish Ch Dey & Nakur Ch Nandy
From being Sri Ramakrishna’s favourite sweet shop once upon a time, to being the go-to of Amitabh Bachchan and many more celebs andmishticonnoisseurs from across the globe — Nakur is the star of themishti para. A joint venture between Nakur Chandra Nandy from Janai in Hooghly district and his father-in-law Girish Chandra Dey, this shop has been ruling themishti-scape since 1844.Nalin Chandra Das & Sons
With its oldest shop in the nearby Natun Bajar area running since 1841, this was their second outlet, opened in 2010, by current owner Tapan Das. Established by Johuree Lal Das, a moira from Dubrajhat in Bardhaman district, Nalin Chandra Das & Sons has been a front runner in the making of Chocolate Sandesh in town.Subhodh Chandra Mullick
Around 100 years old, this shop is another favourite of the locals, many of whom vouch for their Mishti Doi and Norom Paak Sandesh. The current owner Amit Mullick, 57, feels the competition from all themishtishops around is good for the business, as it attracts a lot ofmishtilovers to this lane. “Quality assurance is key to sustain in this competitive environment. It’s asabeki(heritage)paraknown for itsmishtis. No one can beat that!” he attests.Chhana Patty
That a lane with so many heritage sweet shops will have a dedicated market forchhanaor cottage cheese doesn’t come as a surprise. Only if the veterans of the area are to be believed, what remains today is just a sad trace of a once flourishing hotspot for the cottage cheese industry. The lane beside the market starts buzzing with thechhanasuppliers coming from the interiors of the Hooghly and Buardhaman districts, post 2 pm every day.
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