Crunchy Achappam; Tracing The Origins Of South India's Popular Cookies

Ah, tea time, the most loved meal of the day for Indians! We are a nation that takes our tea seriously, so much so that it's not just a beverage, it's an emotion. Whether it's morning, afternoon, or evening, we find any excuse to grab a cuppa and indulge in some chai and snacks.

Tea time is like a mini party that we celebrate every day. It's that time of the day when we take a break from work, sit back, and sip on our hot, steaming tea while munching on some delicious snacks. Cookies and biscuits play a major role during this time. Achappam, also known as Rosette cookies or Achu Murukku, is a popular snack in South India, particularly in the states of Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka. It is a deep-fried snack made with rice flour, coconut milk, sugar, and eggs. Achappam is known for its unique flower-like shape and crispy texture. The history of achappam dates back to the colonial period in India when the Dutch had a significant influence on the cuisine of the region. The word 'achappam' is derived from the Dutch word 'happen,' which means 'to bite.' The Dutch introduced many recipes to the Indian culinary scene, and achappam is believed to be one of them.

Tracing back the origins of Achappam

The history of achappam can be traced back to the colonial period in India when the Dutch East India Company established its trading posts in the Malabar region of present-day Kerala. The Dutch traders brought with them their own food culture, including various snacks and sweets, which were gradually assimilated into the local cuisine. One such snack was the rosette cookie, which is believed to be the precursor to the modern-day achappam. The rosette cookie was a popular snack in the Netherlands and other European countries during the 18th and 19th centuries. It was typically made by dipping an iron mold into a batter of flour, eggs, and milk, and then frying the resulting cookie in hot oil until it turned golden brown. The cookie had a distinctive flower-like shape, which was created by the mold, and a crispy texture.

The Dutch traders introduced the rosette cookie to the people of Kerala, who were quick to adopt it and adapt it to their own taste. Over time, the recipe evolved, and new ingredients were added, such as coconut milk and cardamom, to give the snack a distinct flavour that was unique to the region. The iron mould used to make the cookie was also modified to suit the local conditions, and a new version called the 'achu' was developed. The achu was typically made of cast iron and had a long handle that allowed the cook to dip it into the batter and then immerse it in hot oil without burning their fingers.

achappam/ pinterest.com

The achappam gradually became a favourite snack in Kerala, particularly among the Christian community, who used it as a treat during their festive celebrations. It was commonly made during Christmas, Easter, and other Christian festivals, and was often distributed among friends and relatives as a token of goodwill. The snack also became popular among non-Christians, who enjoyed its crispiness and sweet flavour.

In recent times, achappam has gained popularity beyond Kerala and is now a popular snack across India and other parts of the world. It is available in many stores and is often exported to countries with a large Indian population. The snack has also undergone further modifications, with new flavours and ingredients being added to suit modern tastes.

Despite these changes, the traditional way of making achappam using the achu mold is still popular among many families in Kerala, who consider it an important part of their cultural heritage. Making achappam is often a family affair, with several members of the household involved in the preparation, frying, and packaging of the snack. The recipe is often passed down from one generation to another, along with the achu mold, which is considered a valuable family heirloom.

Here's how you can make achappam at home-

Ingredients

• 1 cup rice flour
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour (maida)
• 1/2 cup coconut milk
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/4 tsp cardamom powder
• Oil for frying

Method

• In a mixing bowl, combine the rice flour, all-purpose flour, coconut milk, sugar, cardamom powder, and eggs. Mix well to form a smooth batter. The batter should be thick and of pouring consistency.
• Heat oil in a deep frying pan over medium heat. Dip the achu mold into the oil and heat it for 1-2 minutes. Take it out and shake off any excess oil.
• Dip the heated mold into the batter, making sure the batter covers the entire mold. Do not dip the mold completely into the batter, leave a small gap at the top.
• Place the mold back into the hot oil and fry until the achappam turns golden brown. Use a skewer or needle to loosen the edges and remove the achappam from the mold.
• Place the fried achappam on a paper towel to remove any excess oil.
• Repeat the process with the remaining batter and mold.
• Serve the achappam once it has cooled down and become crispy.