Mastering The Art Of Grinding Spices: A Symphony Of Indian Flavours

GRINDING SPICES is an essential skill, which might explain why we have specialists dedicated to it, especially in Indian cuisine where spices are pivotal. Modern methods of blending spices vary from cold grinding to hot, each playing a unique role. Sometimes, you might hear advice to toast the spices before blending, while in other instances, you may be instructed to add them directly without dry roasting.

Transforming whole spices into finer particles not only intensifies their flavour but also unveils a complexity that pre-ground spices simply cannot match. Mastering the art of grinding spices allows for a personalised touch to the texture and intensity of your spice blends, elevating your dishes to new heights.

There are several methods to grind spices, each with its own unique advantages. One of the most time-honoured and fulfilling techniques is the use of a mortar and pestle or hamam dasta. Though this technique is true in our Indian subcontinent text, it can be applied the world over as well. This ancient tool enables you to manually crush and grind spices, drawing out their essential oils and aromas through controlled pressure and motion. For those who prefer a quicker, more efficient method and practical machine, electric spice grinders can easily be used. 

But more than the technique and mindless making powder of spices, it is important for you to understand the texture you aim to achieve and the specific characteristics of the spices you are working with. You would not make a fine powder while making a kosha mangsho but for butter chicken, you might. To evoke my inner Kafka, I would say grinding spices is not merely a mechanical act; it is a transformative ritual that transcends the mundane, infusing each dish with profound depth, richness and soul. In this seemingly simple process lies the essence of culinary experimentation, where the coarse and raw are meticulously metamorphosed into the fine and intricate. This art, much like the subtle complexities of life itself, reveals hidden layers and nuances that pre-ground packet spices, devoid of personal touch, can never replicate. To master the grinding of spices is to engage in a dance with the elements.

If you ask me, Indian cuisine is like a classic Madan Mohan composition—rich, complex and layered. Think of the song ‘Ae Dil Mujhe Bata De’ from the movie Bhai Bhai (1959), where every element plays a specific role, from Geeta Dutt’s melodious voice to each instrument creating a charming and unforgettable melody. The spice blends in food from the Indian subcontinent are just the same—each spice is there to play its part and not because you found the shape of a spice ‘interesting’. I would categorise them into three groups, each contributing to the harmony of flavours that fill Indian kitchens. You may define them differently, but based on my understanding, this is how I see them.

1. The Basic Spices

The essence of Indian cuisine lies in its foundational spices—cumin seeds, coriander, mustard, turmeric and chilli powder. These basic spices are like the first notes of a melody, setting the stage for all that follows. Cumin seeds (jeera) brings a warm, earthy depth, while coriander (dhania) adds a fresh and slightly citrusy flavour. Black mustard seeds (rayi) add a sharp, pungent flavour, often used in tempering to release their aroma. Turmeric (haldi), with its vibrant golden hue, not only enhances flavour but also brings a touch of ancient medicinal wisdom to the dish. Then there is chilli powder (lal mirch), giving dishes their characteristic heat and spice, and asafoetida (hing), adding a unique savoury touch and aiding digestion. Together, these spices form the backbone of Indian cooking—a foundation that lets other ingredients shine.

2. Complementary Spices

Complementary spices are like harmonies that enrich the main tune. Spices like fennel seeds (saunf), known for its digestive properties, and fenugreek (methi), celebrated for its health benefits, work alongside the basic spices to create depth. Carom seeds (ajwain) add their unique sharpness, enhancing the flavours of vegetables and pulses, making each dish come alive with character.

3. Aromatics or Secondary Spices

The third group, aromatic spices, brings a subtle yet profound impact. Aromatic or secondary spices are the subtle yet defining brushstrokes that elevate Indian cuisine into something extraordinary. These spices add depth, elegance and complexity to every dish. Green cardamom (elaichi), with its sweet and floral aroma, is used to flavour desserts, curries, and the ever-famous masala chai. Black cardamom (kali/badi elaichi) offers a contrasting smoky note, perfect for meat and rice dishes, adding a bold depth that lingers. Cinnamon (dalchini) brings a gentle warmth, enriching both curries and rice dishes like pulao. Cloves (laung) are small but potent, lending a sharp intensity to marinades, pickles, and garam masala blends. Nutmeg (jaiphal) and mace (jaivitri) each contribute a slightly sweet, aromatic complexity, often used in small amounts to enhance both savoury and sweet preparations. Saffron (kesar), the most luxurious of all, is used sparingly, bringing a golden colour and a delicate, floral warmth to special dishes and desserts. Finally, bay leaf (tej patta) imparts a subtle bitterness, adding depth to stews, curries, and rice.

These aromatic spices are like the finishing notes of Madan Mohan’s melody—transforming a dish from something good into something unforgettable.

In Indian cooking, where the harmony of spices can define a meal, mastering the skill of grinding spices can significantly enhance the flavour and aroma of your food. Whether you are making a robust garam masala, a fragrant curry powder or a simple chai spice blend, the process of grinding spices brings you closer to the essence of Indian cuisine, connecting tradition with the modern culinary landscape.

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The above excerpt from Sadaf Hussain's latest book Masalamandi has been reproduced here with due permission of the publisher Penguin Random House India.