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There are conflicting sentiments when it comes to travel. Some say it broadens the mind, others say it urges your heart to return to the place you call home. But why can’t it be both? For Mitra Walke, the mind behind Coast & Bloom in Mumbai, exploring the world and its multitude of cuisines triggered the start of something new but it also gave him the opportunity to connect with his past.
At Coast & Bloom, a new coastal cuisine restaurant in the busy streets of Dadar, an old legacy has been reinvented. The Walke family are well known for their success at Chaitanya (also in Dadar) which has been a frequented seafood destination since 1993, and later at Nav Chaitanya in Andheri for offering up an array of Malvani dishes that echo the flavours of their hometown where they first dove into the restaurant business. Mitra’s mother Surekha Walke was the force behind their success and it’s her recipes that still form the bedrock of their restaurants.
Coast & Bloom takes that rich past and builds a new vision for the future with coastal cuisine, inspired by his experiences around the world. The menu, created with Chef Prasad Parab, spans Southeast Asia, the sunny shores of California, the serene Amalfi Coast, the rich diversity of India’s coastlines and beyond. Attempting to go this far afield with any menu can be an ask for any restaurant, but here it’s all tied together with heart. Rather than relying on recipes from prestigious chefs, the team contacted mothers and wives around the world to ensure every recipe had a feeling of coming home.
Mitra explains that all the items that made it to the menu from the 300+ dishes they trial tested serve a common purpose. The aim of Coast & Bloom isn’t to be just another ‘seafood’ place in Mumbai, it’s to carve out a unique experience that makes everyone feel welcome, an inclusivity that translates to the name. The ‘Coast’ defines not just their seafood offerings, but all the meat dishes inspired by coastal cuisines, and the ‘Bloom’ refers to their equally impressive vegetarian selection. As Mitra puts it, “It’s a place for the whole family to come together, where everyone will find something that they like.”
Its location in Kohinoor Square Mall can initially be confusing – after all, fine-dining restaurants usually opt for more flamboyant locations – but once you step inside, the intent becomes clear. With pastel hues and subtle hints of seaside chic, it sets up an atmosphere that is warm, and welcoming and invites you to settle in for the evening. Opt for either their brighter, family-friendly section, or their more ambient section with mood lighting for a more intimate experience. They also have two private dining rooms which can comfortably accommodate large parties for work or special occasions.
Their commitment to the regional theme starts at the bar where along with all the traditional options, there are a selection of in-house liqueurs that play off culture, heritage and traditions from around the world. The Nacre for example is a rice-based spirit with notes of Sichuan pepper, and served with a Raspberry umeshu liqueur. Closer to home, taste the flavours of the South in the Malligai which is made with Aperol and green apple to echo the flavours of Mogra. They also have a selection of Indian-inspired mocktails like the Ratamba which is made with kokum and makes for a refreshing sip.
Along with your drinks, they offer a selection of nibbles and this is the first place you’ll see how masterfully they’ve combined elements of East and West. The Kothimbir Poppers are a nod to Maharashtrian Kothimbir Vadas, but shaped with the classic curl of Italian Gnocchi for a new and crunchy eating experience.
Elements of Mitra’s childhood have made it onto the menu, and the Coastal Banga soup is inspired by memories of his grandmother boiling coconut to cook with at the family home back in Malvan. Another must-try is the Wood Roast Liver that echoes his childhood when he and his cousins would snag the offal and offcuts while the adults were busy cooking, throw them on the fire, and eat them as a quick snack. The elevated version features perfectly cooked pieces of chicken liver, rubbed in Malavani spices and served in lettuce cups with a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds that add a unique burst of freshness.
Head further East with the Lapeta Roll, a Thai-inspired dish featuring a lean chicken breast, stuffed with mince, dry nuts and cheese and cooked over coal, served with a raw mango pickle and a light mornay sauce. It’s a dish that combines Indian with Thai, and French and beyond, but despite trying to do it all, still manages to be a balanced bite. In the seafood savouries, you’re taken around the world on small plates. Hit up Goa with the Xacuti-inspired Sungata Maria, visit the Malabar Coast with The Kerala Pepper Clams, or even head over to the States with the Oysters Rockefeller or the Louisiana Crab Cakes.
They have a few signature mains like the Port Wine Pomfret which combines a distinctly Indian fish with Chinese-style wok techniques. Though the vast part of the seafood menu features indigenous fish, they do make an exception for some scallops and Norwegian Salmon which can be enjoyed in Thai, Japanese, or Spanish styles. They also have a delectable Lobster Ravioli which is made in-house and served with a rich pecorino and sage butter. Though the pasta is a shade on the thicker side, it makes for a comforting plate that feels homely and decadent at the same time.
Back on the Indian Coast, you shouldn’t miss out on the Motla, a lost Konkan speciality of mackerel slathered in a paste of tirphals, chillies, garlic, kokum and Sichuan pepper, then steamed in banana leaves and served tableside in a clay dish with sol kadhi and Konkan sticky rice. If you’re looking to add to your meal, they also have a selection of rice dishes like Moplah Biryani and Kolambi Khichdi that will make every Indian food lover happy. Finish off the meal with one of their fusion desserts like the Puran Phyllo Parcels or the Cannoli, a brandy-infused pastry shell filled with candied fruits, nuts and a lighter-than-air creme.
Coast & Bloom delivers on every one of its promises. Although it celebrates coastal cuisine unapologetically, it caters to every taste and desire so whether you’re visiting to enjoy their Malvani legacy or feel a craving for European or East Asian cuisine, you’re sure to leave happy. Every dish feels well-considered, which with a menu that’s so diverse is a feat in itself. They’ve managed to take international cuisine and breathe a sense of comfort into fine dining, an experience worth returning to time and time again.
