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Walking the streets of South Mumbai can often feel like being catapulted back in time. In contrast to the steel and glass of the modern side of the city, the south surrounds you with stone edifices and the character of a bygone era. Nksha, one of the newest additions to the area’s thriving food scene is carrying that torch and taking it a step further, fusing the best of the past and the present on their modern North Indian menu.
During the 1940s, the property was home to Gourdon and Co, one of the many iconic names that scattered Veer Nariman street. “There were places like Gaylord and La Bella,” says co-founder Pranav Rungta, “where people would get all dressed up, go out to eat and then dance the night away. We wanted to pay homage to that era while also giving familiar North Indian dishes our own Nksha twist.”
The beautiful Art Deco interiors curated by ns*a Architecture & Interiors invite you in and create the atmosphere of a chic speakeasy in the roaring 20s. And naturally, they have the drink menu to match. It’s clear that bar manager Varun Sudhakar has taken the brief of ‘modern Indian flavours’ very seriously as you peruse the cocktail list inspired by local ingredients.
One beautiful example of how they’ve integrated these flavours in unlikely ways comes in the Churchgate (no points for guessing the inspiration behind that name). It features mezcal infused with the kick of Bhavnagiri chillies, black cardamom syrup and a kick of citrus. Despite the bold flavours, it has a surprisingly clean and balanced finish. Another must-try is Bollywood, which is every bit as glamorous as it sounds. With blue pea-infused gin, dry ginger honey syrup and lemon juice it makes for a tangy, citrus-forward sip.
No cocktail session is complete without nibbles on the side, and while co-founder Vikram Arora has curated a staggering array of appetisers on their culinary menu, the gourmet kulchas are a great place to start. The Tawa Lobster Mughlai Paratha features butter-poached local lobster cocooned in a paratha, along with fresh chillies and herbs and liberally sprinkled with spices. It’s the perfect size for sharing along while you work your way through the cocktail menu.
Aligning once again with their concept to bring old and new together, their chaat menu features Dilli staples with international touches. The Palak and Betel leaf Chaat is a fan favourite with a nice balance of sweet and salty. The Burrata Chaat is another star with a baby burrata perched on a tomato launji base and encased in a toasty, crumbly cheddar cheese tart. There are also a wide variety of tikkas and kebabs that enjoy a more traditional treatment, because who wants to try and improve on that sort of perfection?
When you’ve worked your way through their ample appetiser section and reached the mains there are again a whole slew of innovations to sample. The Gucchi Matar Methi Malai with Kashmiri morels stuffed with a cashew paste and cooked in creamy methi sauce is a delight of unexpected flavours and textures. For the meat-lovers, the Smoked Laal Maas is a unique take on the Rajasthani dish. Milder than you’d expect, and focused more on creating a depth of flavour through the smoky gravy. Some other fan favourites include their signature makhani, Dal Nksha, and the Nalli Nihari, classics they’ve made to the highest standards. And with a full page of Indian breads – all the regular suspects plus rarer spots like Khamiri Naan and Lucknowi Sheermal – whatever main you choose is sure to find its ideal companion.
Along with your meal, be sure to ask for their wine recommendations. Sommelier Nikhil Agarwal has curated an extensive wine list from all over the world that is designed to pair with North Indian cuisine. There’s a myth that Indian food doesn’t pair well with wine so they sell buy the glass as well as by the bottle to encourage people to sample more of their selection.
The grand finale is the desserts, which Pranav Rungta admits is his favourite section. Cleanse your palate with a Jamun Sorbet, made from frozen Jamun pulp, known better as a Jamun Kulfi in Delhi. There are also intriguing additions like the Coffee Rasmalai, the Mirchi Ka Halwa and a Nutella Ghewar Tart. But if you’re a fan of tradition, the Coin Jalebi Rasmalai is for you. Crunchy, warm, coin-sized jalebis on a base of creamy saffron rabri, studded with pistachios, it doesn’t get more indulgent, or more comforting than this.
Though it only opened its doors a couple of weeks ago, Nksha seems well on its way to being a neighbourhood staple. Their attention to detail, knowledgeable staff, respect for traditional dishes and vision for a modernised North Indian experience has definitely come together into a unique dining experience for the whole family.
