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In India, a few chefs have taken the Indian culinary fares on the global map. Their steadfast love and respect for their motherland's flavours and aromas worked as the driving force. Among them, a select few choose to put their heart and soul into reviving lost glories of regional grubs gasping for breath. Although the end outcome may not be immediately apparent, the intrepid group continues to work diligently. Chef Jerson Fernandes, Culinary Director of Novotel Mumbai Juhu Beach, is a cult icon among seasoned and aspiring chefs. This incredibly accomplished and acclaimed Chef is an idol for many, having won a flood of prestigious honours.
In his list of accolades, the feats include the Guinness World Record for the largest varieties of bread, Best Executive Chef of 2019 by the Federation of Hotel and Restaurant Association of India, Emerging Executive Chef of the Year Award in 2018, The Most Creative Budding Chef of India in 2014 among others. Recently, he became the only chef from Accor Asia to feature in a special edition on millets launched by the Indian Prime Minister, Narendra Modi. Jerson's 'Tulsi Honey and Finger Millet Tea Cake' was featured alongside millet recipes by select chefs of the world.
Jerson has been awarded for his incredible contribution to Goan Cuisine and tourism! When asked to share a few significant aspects of this achievement? Chef Jerson Fernandes articulates, "Every culinary innovation is meant to strengthen relationships between people and food through regional food networks. Integrating the values of sustainable gastronomy was in the efforts ranging from The Farmer's Markets for Sunday Brunch, Spice Trails, the First Vegan Bar at Amalia, Novotel Goa Dona Sylvia Resort, Farm Tour cooking, Dining With Elsa-the Goldfish, and Saltwater tours. Each culinary initiative is to showcase the essence of Goa and the communities of Goa."
His Instagram profile has been a platform where he tries to mirror his ethos and values encompassing food and beverages. A vocal advocate of curbing food wastage and popularising ancient grains like millet of India, Jerson inspires one and all.
In an exclusive interview with Slurrp, Chef Jerson Fernandes gets candid about sharing his life, work, passion and ambition.
Excerpts:
Q. What nudged you to enter this field?
Food has a story, and every single plate of it represents my exploration and experimentation of ingredients. What nudged me to be a Chef and remains crucial is seizing the opportunity to create and become an inspiration unto myself through my love for food!
Q. When dreams meet reality, there are both happy and challenging times! How was it for you?
My primary lessons as a chef began as a dishwasher. It was after a whole-hearted acceptance with ease and careful consideration of the challenges of a first-time experience of luxury dining, being among the Master Chefs and culinary legends. Also, not to forget the scope of residing among unknown cultures, and within a decade, expanding the horizons of my culinary aptitude with fidelity to be a rising star in the ranks of an Executive Chef.
Q. What was the turning point in your professional life?
I would sum it up as – 'Appreciation of the Opportunity'! This is the start of another chapter in the learning journey of my life. It's a fine blend of acceptance and an appreciation for the Accor Management Training Programme as a Graduate. The Accor culture, where limitless opportunities abound, has enabled me to achieve personal and professional fulfilment and life-long learning.
Q. Is there anyone in the professional sphere who has mentored you, or do you consider an idol?
In my professional journey so far, inspirational mentoring abounds in Chef Swamy Vivekanand, Head of Department – Culinary, IHM Hyderabad. His wisdom and encouragement steered me to a career pathway of amazing feats. I still consider him to be my greatest inspiration and guiding force.
Q. Over the years, what has become your signature style of cooking?
Good food is imaginative and honours the ingredients, the utensils and the techniques. The signature style is an enrichment of my experience, and braising as a manner of cooking allows me to navigate trends comfortably. It also reveals my authenticity and creativity as a chef.
Q.Which cuisine is your forte?
With a fair share of experience across countries and with culinary icons, Trans-Atlantic fusion food is my forte. And it is a technique that ignites my adventurous spirit.
Q. How do you keep your inspiration alive?
Guests are seeking curated meals and food and beverage service offerings that are gourmand experiences and mementoes of culinary talent. Having always focused on conscious dining, the cook must bring soul to the recipe – a motivational statement enunciated by Thomas Keller. For this, my artisanal techniques and calculated recklessness help me introduce people to the diversity of food.
Chef Jerson ensuring precision in presentation, Image Source: jerson.montereyjack@Instagram
Q. You also hold the Guinness World Record holder. Can you share your experience of this feat?
The Guinness World Record for the highest number of bread varieties in 2020 may bear my name. I am humbled to say that the award clearly reflects the sincerity of directed efforts and the determination of my mentors, colleagues and well-wishers towards my commitment to excellence.
Q. You have worked extensively on Goan cuisine. According to you, what is its signature element?
Goan food is rich in culture, heritage and history. The local delicacies of the coast enliven the charm and spirit of the Goa I know and grew up in. Top chefs of the world are experimenting with the flavours of this coastal state and elevating menus based on the indigenous ingredients of the region.
Q. Are there any Goan culinary fares which are lost/or on the verge which you have restored or are in the process of?
The Goan cooking techniques, ingredients and cookware have been integral to the restoration process in my kitchen. A special mention has to be made of Lost Recipes and heritage cooking - a revolution that calls for incredible tastes and renewed menus and sets the food scene for evolving guests' expectations.
Q. What is your comfort food?
Ras omelette, or more commonly heard as Ros Omelette, is a Goan snack. It is my personal favourite, a staple in Goa's street food montage.
Q. Which dish do you cook the best?
The magical transformation of ingredients is seen in The Eden Garden – evoking emotions of comfort, delight and nostalgia.
Chef's Jerson's signature Eden Garden
Q. What new initiatives or items have you put on the menu in your current engagement?
The initiatives at Novotel Mumbai Juhu Beach Hotel range from the seasonal gourmet - Chhatai chicken to the contemporary comforts - of Tandoori Miso black cod. Likewise, the list also includes the classic Grand Mama's Chocolate Delight or, to the health-conscious diners - vegan melon tuna. Each meal is fashioned to integrate sustainable food practices, which are a marvel to the eyes and tastebuds.
Q. As an industry veteran, what are your observations regarding food trends in India, and what do you anticipate shortly?
The Indian culinary scene has given more power to plant-based diets, climate-conscious foods, superfoods and millet. Chefs need to provide specialised wellness trends with flavours and nutritional profiles. As an online spectacle, The Butter Boards is a conversation prompter and a fun-filled masterpiece of sensory enjoyment. I anticipate that food to protect health and the planet through an immersive dining experience is the only constant to stay.
Q.Is there any disturbing aspect of any Indian or its regional food which you wish to change?
Food tourism is a vital component of the travel and tourism industry. The experiential element of unique food and beverage service offerings through tours, farmers' markets, and culinary masterclasses should not become mere gastronomic extravaganzas. Instead, these should demonstrate the originality and authenticity of regions and communities' traditions, culture and cuisine. Even though the Chef is an experimenter of a co-creative meal experience or a curator of flavours and tastes.
Q.What is your mission with Indian food?
Indian food has made India proud in many ways. The cuisine now has an international appeal making its presence felt in every corner of the world. Chefs have been experimenting a lot with Indian culinary fares and fusing them with various other cuisines, which has worked out well. However, restoring the authenticity and history of our country's cuisine is imperative.
Chef Jerson at his jovial self
Q. We have heard that you are passionate about travelling for great food. Can you share some interesting food stories?
Local produce and regional ingredients are distinct representatives of the region's culinary landscape. My search for great food is in my role as a Chef – to reveal connections to historical traditions and stories through the dynamism and the essence of the cuisine, connect people through culinary tourism, and be mindful of the language used to describe food.
Q. What more can we expect from you in the coming days?
While I continually challenge myself to refine my skills-set, my aspirations have evolved over time. Correspondingly, my agility will set the pace to being the catalyst for change embraced by a philosophy that celebrates sustainable gastronomy and ensures the future of food security through collective action.
Q. What are your expert cooking tips for our readers?
Food is an art form, and the cooking style is your handwriting. So become an innovator, a curator, and a visualiser to stimulate and surprise the sensory experiences of dining, translating the simplest of ingredients into dishes of delight.
