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In India, when one talks about subject-matter-expert of Goan cuisine, one name that emerges unanimously is Chef Paul Noronha. Currently working as the Executive Chef of ITC Grand Central, Mumbai, his high-demand role involves overseeing all culinary operations, creating menus, and ensuring quality standards. Prior to this engagement, the veteran culinary connoisseur has held several notable positions in his glorious career at ITC hotel properties like ITC Kakatiya, Hyderabad; ITC Chola Sheraton, Chennai and more.
Chef Paul has completed the silver jubilee of his career in the F&B industry. Cooking was the innate passion that he nurtured from a very young age. In his words, "I was inspired by my love of food and cooking. Not to forget the immense creativity the culinary art allows."
In an exclusive interview with Slurrp, the seasoned professional opened up, sharing narratives of his rich saga revolving around cuisine, flavours, epicureanism and gourmands.
Excerpts:
Has anyone from your family greatly influenced your relationship with food and cooking style?
My mother was a great cook, and her love for food and cooking was passed down to me. She significantly influenced my relationship with food and my cooking style.
Q. How easy or challenging were your initial years?
To be honest, the initial years were challenging, as the culinary industry is demanding and fast-paced. However, I was ardent about cooking, and I learned quickly.
Q. What was the turning point in your career?
It was a significant turning point when I received recognition for my work and was offered a leadership position as an executive chef. This allowed me to be a leader in the kitchen and have the opportunity to manage a team of chefs and pantry staff.
Q. Even after working for so long, have you ever felt bored or lost interest?
Never ever! I have never lost interest in cooking. Thanks to my love for this job, I am constantly driven by new ingredients, techniques, and cuisines. Staying motivated and striving for excellence keeps me going.
Q. What is your source of inspiration for your cooking?
Oh, the list is exhaustive! I draw inspiration from myriad sources, including local ingredients, cultural influences, and personal experiences.
Q. Chef Paul Noronha's signature style of cooking!
It is a fusion of traditional techniques with a modern twist.
Q. Your repute as a knowledge repository of Goan cuisine is well known. Tell us about your observations of Goan cuisine! What people don't know about it?
Goan cuisine is rich in flavour and has a unique blend of Indian and Portuguese influences. People often overlook the diversity of seafood in Goan cuisine.
Q. Are there any Goan Culinary fares which you have revived or wish to revive and bring on the menu?
I am always interested in reviving traditional Goan dishes and incorporating them into my menu.
Executive Chef Paul on work, Image Source: ITC Grand Central, Mumbai
Q. How do you do your research when it comes to such dishes?
I do my research by talking to local chefs, food historians, and other experts. It is a process that blends researching traditional recipes, ingredients, and cooking methods and then adapting them for modern tastes and presentation. This not only helps preserve the culinary traditions of Goan cuisine but also allows diners to experience unique and delicious dishes that may not be commonly found on restaurant menus.
Q. What are the star ingredients of Goan cuisine?
It is not just one, but several star ingredients, such as seafood, coconut, and spices like tamarind and kokum.
Crab curry and rice
Q. In general, cocktails in India have foreign-origin alcohol. What is your take on cocktails with Goan special Feni? Have you created anything with it?
Using local alcohol like feni in cocktails is a great way to showcase the unique flavours of Goan cuisine. I have created several cocktails that incorporate feni, which were always well-received by diners.
Q. Apart from drinks, can Indian alcohol like Feni be used in foods like one uses wine and rum?
Feni can definitely be used in cooking an array of culinary fares, much like wine and rum. It adds a unique flavour and can be used in sauces, marinades, and more.
Q. What is the dish or cuisine which you cook the best?
My favourite dish to cook is constantly changing, as I always experiment and try new things.
Q. What is your comfort food?
Any day it is home-style cooking. Nothing can be more comforting than a warm bowl of soup or a comforting casserole.
Q. Is there any message you would like to convey through your style of cooking or knowledge of culinary art?
I aim to showcase the beauty and diversity of local ingredients and cuisines through my cooking.
Q. As we talk about hyper-local food, does your hotel have them on the menu?
Yes, our hotel features local and seasonal ingredients in the menu, and we are always looking for ways to incorporate traditional dishes.
Q. Which dish from the menu is Chef Paul recommended?
I recommend trying our signature seafood dish, which features the freshest catch of the day prepared with local spices and herbs.
Q. What is your observation of diners and foodies of recent times?
Present-day diners and foodies are incredibly keen on exploring new cuisines and ingredients, which is great.
Q. What are your future plans?
My future plans include continuing to innovate, pushing the boundaries of my culinary skills, and always providing an exceptional dining experience for my patrons.
