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Madhya Pradesh is a state in central India that is home to a large tribal population. Over 1.5 million people in the state belong to scheduled tribes. Nearly one-fifth of Madhya Pradesh's residents belong to various tribal groups like Bhil, Gond, Oraon, and Baiga that have inhabited the forests and hills of the region for centuries.
The Baigas, one of the most ancient tribal groups in Madhya Pradesh, have an intimate connection with nature as forest dwellers. Residing primarily in the forested districts of Mandla and Balaghat, they possess extensive knowledge of the healing properties of local flora and fauna. Rashmi Mehta, SHO Tribal Department, Satpura, MP, says, “the name 'Baiga' likely derives from the Hindi word 'vaidya', meaning healer, reflecting their proficiency with natural remedies.”
The Baiga tribe of Madhya Pradesh maintains their traditional hunter-gatherer lifestyle in the forests of central India. Tracking prey and spearing fish provide sustenance alongside wild fruits, vegetables, and grains like kodo millet and kutki. Their diet and culture centres around the versatile Mahua plant, used for cooking oil, medicine, juice, and alcohol.
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They have traditionally maintained their traditional way of life, which includes hunting and gathering in the forest. They learn tracking, hunting, and fishing with spears and arrows. The Baiga also use skills from blacksmiths, carpenters, and others to meet their daily needs.
Cuisine Of The Baiga Tribe: A Rich And Vibrant Food Culture
The cuisine of the Baiga tribe of central India is simple yet nourishing, making use of the hardy grains and edible flowers that thrive in their forest homeland. Mehta said, “At the heart of their diet are millets like kodo and kutki. Being coarse grains, kodo and kutki do not lend themselves well to bread making, so the Baiga use little wheat flour. Instead, they rely on the grains themselves, grinding them into satiating porridges and brewing them into cooling drinks.”
A traditional Baiga platter is a colorful and flavorful feast for the senses. Lentils, greens, and rice simmered in local spices form the base. This is topped with mahua puri, a fried bread made from mahua flower. Next comes a hearty chicken curry bursting with aromatic spices.
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Chokha, a mashed medley of roasted veggies, adds texture and earthiness. Betelnut flavored dumplings in a rich curry provide a unique taste. The meal is finished with a refreshing glass of sattu sharbat, made from sweetened gram flour. Every component complements the next, making this platter a harmonious exploration of Baiga cuisine. Mahua barfi and laddoos are made by moms for their kids, as it is loved and relished by kids.
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The Baigas are an indigenous tribe residing in the dense forests of central India who have a deep spiritual connection to the land they inhabit. They practice a traditional form of shifting cultivation called “Bewar”, where small patches of forest are cleared, and crops are grown for a couple of seasons before allowing the land to return to its natural state.
Mehta says, “The Baigas believe that the earth is sacred like a mother, and so they are careful not to overexploit it through intensive farming practices like repeated ploughing.” In keeping with their close ties to the forest, the Baigas have extensive knowledge of edible and medicinal wild plants. Their staple foods consist of millets like Kodo, Kutki and Sikiya, which grow well in the Bewar clearings with minimal intervention. Sikiya millet is used to make rotis called ghas ki roti as well as rice.
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The Baigas supplement their diet by foraging for mushrooms, fruits, leafy greens and tubers that proliferate in the lush forest. Their intimate Indigenous knowledge of local flora and time-tested subsistence strategies serve as valuable examples of how to sustainably inhabit forest ecosystems.
Kodu and Kutki are types of millet grown in India. The Baiga and Gond tribes, of Madhya Pradesh, cultivate these nutritious grains on the slopes of hills. The small, round grains can be eaten like rice. These hardy millets thrive in dry conditions, providing sustenance where rice cannot grow. Kodu and Kutki represent the biodiversity of India's indigenous grains, adapted over centuries to provide nourishment in harsh environments.
The Baiga tribal people of Madhya Pradesh have developed unique ways of storing grains like millet and corn to preserve them for long periods. They often tie these grains in long rows that hang upside down from the ceilings of their small mud homes. The smoky environment from cooking fires helps protect the grains from pests. Bundles of millet and corn form rows that crisscross along the ceilings, creating fascinating patterns.
In addition to grains, the Baiga tribe relies on forest mushrooms for nutrition and delicious flavours. Varieties like putpuda and pindikus are gathered in the monsoon season when they sprout up quickly under trees. Putpuda mushrooms have a hearty, earthy taste and are often cooked with chicken to make a rich stew. Their intricate knowledge of the surrounding jungles provides an abundance of ingredients for their cuisine.
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Staple Dishes From Millets And Rice
A staple porridge is made from kodo or kutki flour mixed with water and cooked until thick. This nutritious porridge forms the centrepiece of Baiga meals. Sometimes rice is boiled until very soft, then combined with the millet porridge. Rice also plays a role in pej, a refreshing fermented rice drink.
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Mehta says, “To make pej, rice is soaked, boiled, and drained. The starchy water left from boiling is mixed with ground macca beans and allowed to ferment for a few days. The resulting tangy, probiotic beverage quenches thirst and cools the body in the heat.”
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The Versatile And Valued Mahua Flower
But the ingredient that truly defines Baiga cuisine is the mahua flower. Indigenous to central India, the mahua tree produces yellow flowers that are dried, ground, and used in a myriad of ways.
Mehta says, “Most importantly, the dried flowers are brewed into a lightly alcoholic drink called mahua beverage. This "elixir" is integral to Baiga culture, offered to guests as a sign of hospitality.”
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Further she adds, “It also features in festivals and rituals as a sacred drink. To make the beverage, dried mahua flowers are mixed with water and a starter culture, and then allowed to ferment for a few days. The sweet, earthy drink contains vitamin C and other nutrients.”
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Mahua flowers also find their way into Baiga sweets and snacks. The dried flowers may be ground into a powder and added to lentil or chickpea flour sweets or used as a standalone ingredient in simple flour-less treats. Mahua fritters are made by dipping chopped dried flowers in a chickpea flour batter and frying them. Mahua flowers also contribute their oils, extracted from the seeds to Baiga cooking. This oil is valued for its high resistance to rancidity and is used for frying and seasoning. It is also applied topically by elders to soothe aching joints.
Cuisine Reflecting Tribal Values
In all, Baiga cuisine is highly reflective of the tribe's intimate relationship with the forest. Their use of wild-harvested ingredients like mahua flowers and macca beans shows deep knowledge of local flora. The labour-intensive process of procuring these foods, drying them, and converting them into edible ingredients reveals great skill and ingenuity. Their simple, unrefined dishes also point to a lifestyle valuing closeness to nature over material wealth. In their unique and earthy cuisine, the forest-dwelling Baiga pass down ages-old food traditions intertwined with their tribal identity.
