Lau Ghonto

For a Bengali, there is nothing more satisfying than digging into an ample bowl of Lau Ghonto (bottle gourd vegetable mix) with a plate of steaming Basmati rice, a few fried boris (bite-sized lentil dumplings) and a dollop of fragrant ghee. This humble vegetarian dish is a staple in every Bengali household almost all year round, and acts as a natural coolant for the stomach during the scorching tropical summers. It also has other health benefits, such as keeping the heart and digestive system healthy.

Its taste aside, what makes Lau Ghonto an indispensable dining table feature is its fuss-free preparation. The vegetable is peeled and sliced into small cubes. How the vegetable is sliced determines the preparation. In the case of Ghontos (or Ghyant, which literally means a sludgy mix), the vegetables are diced into small pieces and cooked till they are of a melt-in-your-mouth consistency. But in the case of Chocchoris (vegetable stew), the vegetables are sliced in thin strips that are a little thicker than julienne, but still have a bite and texture.

In a simmering hot pan, the bottle gourd is then tossed around in mustard oil, dried chilli, bori and tempered panch phoron (the five spice blend generously used in Bengali cuisine). This five-spice mix is a non-negotiable part of any Bengali kitchen and consists of nigella seeds, cumin seeds, black mustard seeds, fennel and fenugreek, and is added to everything, from Machher Jhol (Bengali fish curry) to Aloor Chhechki (potato in gravy). The bottle gourd cooks in its own liquid until it loses all bite. The dish is then topped with salt, sugar, ghee, and fresh coriander leaves.

Despite its omnipresence, there seems to be little documented evidence on how Lau Ghonto was first fashioned. Because of the absence of garlic and onion from its recipe, it seems the dish could have been reserved for widowed women who were forced to lead a life of penance and abstain from all forms of indulgences, including eating non-vegetarian food or consuming alcohol.

While the authentic version of Lau Ghonto is vegetarian, it can also be prepared with Ilish er Muro (Hilsa head) or Kucho Chingri (shrimp). Since the dish in itself is quite subtle in taste, it can carry bold, fishy flavours without overpowering the palate with a confused aftertaste.

How fascinating is it then, that this low-calorie, hearty vegetable that is now a kitchen must-have, once had many diverse uses, from serving as salt containers and utensils to the base of Tanpuras and Veena.