Dhokla

From antiquity, Gujarat’s extensive coastline has acted as a magnet for travellers across the globe. The gulf has provided major dynasties, ranging from the Turks to the Portuguese, a gateway to the subcontinent, and their cuisines, an access to the region’s food palette. Perhaps the most popular poster boy of this Gujarati food matinee is the Dhokla.

This spongy savoury cake, made with a blend of chickpea and either rice powder or semolina, is a trusted vegetarian delight. Preparation starts with soaking and fermenting the ground ingredients to create a batter, which is then steamed, cut into pieces and is seasoned in hot oil with tempered mustard seeds, green chillies, and asafoetida. The delicacy is best enjoyed with a garnish of coriander and grated coconut and a generous drench of sweet chutney.

It is interesting to note that rice, the most common ingredient for Dhokla was first cultivated in the primordial Gujarati towns of Lothal and Dholavira of the Indus Valley Civilisation. However, Dhokla is believed to have originated from Dukkia, a pulse-base precursor, references of which are found in Jain text dating back to 1066 CE. This is well supported by the fact that Gujarat banned meat consumption and converted to a pure vegetarian state in the 11th century during King Kumarpal’s reign, who was heavily influenced by the Jain preaching of Guru Hemchandracharya. The first mention of the word Dhokla is found much later in the 16th century Gujarati literature Varanaka Samuchaya.

Over the ages, the traditional preparation has undergone numerous adaptations. There are as many as 12 distinctive varieties of Dhokla popular today. For instance, the Rasiya Dhokla is prepared by boiling the spongy Dhokla cakes in a thick yoghurt curry laden with spices. Similarly, replacing rice with Bengal gram flour has produced the fluffy Khaman Dhokla known for its trademark golden yellow colour. In fact, the Dhokla that has become a national street food today is not the authentic rice powder cake but Khaman. In the preparation of Khandvi Dhokla, on the other hand, buttermilk is added to gram flour to obtain a juicier base, which is then rolled to give the Dhokla its typical appearance. A rather interesting variant is the non-fermented white Idada Dhokla, perfect for Jains and those with digestive issues.