Yakhni

The illustrious culinary mosaic of Kashmir is an ode to its reverent cultural past – summed up in its monumental 36-course gastronomic extravagance called the Wazwan thali. Yakhni, an authentic Kashmiri delight consisting of fine cuts of mutton, lamb or chicken, broiled in a saffron-infused yoghurt gravy, is one among the 36 hand-picked ceremonial servings in the valley and an epicurean delight.

Yakhni is believed to have originated in medieval Persia where it was cooked in covered clay pots. While some assume that the dish derives its name from these traditional vessels, others feel that the word Yakhni stems from the Persian substitute for broth, Akhni.

It is hardly a controversial fact that the northern part of India has withstood repeated invasions since time immemorial and in the process, cradled a historically syncretic civilisation. With Akbar’s annexation of Kashmir in 1586, the treasure trove of Persian condiments became the valley’s acute obsession and soon, Yakhni acquired its Kashmiri identity. The credit for popularising the dish, however, goes to Akbar’s descendants, Jahangir and Shah Jahan, whose fascination with the snow-clad abode, especially during the sweltering summers of the plain, turned Kashmir into the Mughal summer capital and consequently, led to the fine-tuning of Wazwan.

What sets the Yakhni apart from other recipes of mutton or lamb prepared across the country is the unadulterated nature of its ingredients despite being subjected to cross-cultural contamination. This was a result of the ingenuity of Mughal Khansamas (cooks) who replicated the Persian delicacy in its true originality and the conscious attempt of subsequent chefs to abstain from turmeric and tomatoes, widely popular in the Indian mainland.

Though the Yakhni is a Kashmiri dietary pride, Persian travelogues indicate a widespread propagation of the recipe across the continental belt, giving birth to unique adaptations. For instance, the dish is often referred to as Khoresh in Iranian culture and as Iahnie de Fasole in Romania, where the interesting supplement of baked beans enhances the earthy tones. All along the Mediterranean, the addition of fish, tomatoes and onions has established the occidental touch. In Afghanistan, which has historically served as the gateway to the Indian subcontinent, the Yakhni was altered by adding rice to the meat broth to curate the ornamental Yakhni Pulao. In fact, both modern Indian and Pakistani cuisines rely heavily on the Yakhni as a base for most Pilaf (flavoured rice) and Shorbas (soups).