Chaas

With North Indian heat waves becoming more and more brutal from year to year, it is increasingly important to keep ourselves adequately hydrated and mineralised during the scorching summers. In fact, there is an ancient recipe from the Indian texts of wisdom just for this purpose which has been drunk across all periods of history and in all regions of the nation—Chaas or the spiced Indian buttermilk.

Believed to have originated in 1000 BCE at the Himalayan foothills, the earliest drinkers of Chaas were probably from the modern state of Punjab. Chaas is essentially a minimalist mix of curd, water, spices and sometimes herbs, that serves as a tasty coolant and an excellent digestive aid. Though dubbed the Indian buttermilk, the method of preparing a soothing glass of Chaas is different from the way global cuisines have procured and consumed buttermilk since the dawn of civilisation. While traditional buttermilk refers to the whey leftover from cultured full-cream milk, the India buttermilk or Chaas is made from cultured cream or curd.

The traditional way of mixing the ingredients of Chaas is by using an old-fashioned Madhani, a wooden or metal whisk with blunt blades. The natural sweetness of the curd ensures that no added sugar is needed, making the beverage a supremely healthy alternative. The spices used can range from cumin seeds to asafoetida, and toppings, from mint to chopped coriander and curry leaves.

No matter which part of the country we travel to, Chaas is equally enjoyed, only under different tags. In Maharashtra, for instance, Chaas is referred to as Taak and in Karnataka, it is called Majjige. In Bengal, it is referred to as Ghol and involves the addition of lemon variants, mostly the Godhoraj (Kaffir lime). However, the most popular Chaas makers are from Gujarat and Rajasthan.

There is a slight possibility that Chaas, most avidly consumed in Northern India, may have originated beyond the subcontinental borders, and arrived with foreign invaders. The theory is supported by the fact that beverages with an uncanny resemblance to the Indian buttermilk are found across Central Asia and the Middle East. For instance, Turkey’s Ayran and Iran’s Doogh are both salty drinks made by blending yoghurt and topping with mint leaves. It is widely believed that these drinks originated in ancient Persia, known to have significantly influenced modern Indian cuisine.