Created by chef fabio viviani of siena tavern in chicago, this amatriciana sauce is a classic of modern roman cooking (though it most likely came from the town of amatrice about 90 miles away). Typically, it's made with few ingredients: garlic, guanciale (cured pork jowl), cheese and tomato. This version doctors up jarred sauce to keep it quick and calls for easy-to-find pancetta in place of the guanciale. This tomato sauce is sometimes paired with bucatini; here, fabio dresses up rigatoni with it.