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Imagine a kitchen where three talented chefs from different corners of Asia come together. It's like a symphony of flavours and cultures, where too many cooks don't spoil the broth, but they become friends first and connect cultures with their food. And then they create culinary masterpieces and present a carefully curated menu to their diners.
Meet Chef Varun Totlani from Masque in Mumbai, Chef Pichaya Soontornyanakij (Pam) from Potong in Bangkok, and Chef Thitid Tassanakajohn Ton from Le Du in Bangkok. These culinary geniuses are known for crafting incredible dishes that people adore. They recently joined forces for the Masters of Marriott Bonvoy Asian Invasion at The Ritz-Carlton, Bangalore.
And in this conversation, we were able to uncover their unique culinary beliefs, what drives their creativity, and the enchantment that arises when their diverse culinary worlds collide. From giving a fresh twist to comfort food to championing sustainability, they shared creative inspirations, and their commitment to cooking in an eco-friendly way. It's like stepping into their kitchens and hearing their incredible stories unfold.
How have dining trends changed across the world in the past decade, as per your understanding?
Ton: Nowadays, people want to try the traditional and local foods of the land they visit. Not just the tourists and travellers but also the locals of the place prefer trying out traditional foods as compared to 10 years ago, when people were eager to try out foods from different cuisines around the world. In Bangkok, French, Italian, Japanese, and many other cuisines became popular a decade ago. And now, no matter where people travel from, they are more open to trying Thai cuisine while in Bangkok or anywhere in Thailand. Dining trends have changed drastically in that aspect.
Varun: Around 10–15 years ago, luxury dining in India was all about meat, fruits, and other ingredients being sourced from across the world, like New Zealand lamb chops, Scallops from Japan, Norwegian Salmon, and so on. But now, people are more interested in savouring the local and indigenous produce of the land. And I enjoy working with indigenous ingredients by utilising them completely and avoiding waste to the best of my ability.
Pam: In comparison to a decade ago or so, Thai cuisine has evolved and been disrupted in Thailand. Many years ago, Thai cuisine was broadly considered a cuisine that was popularly known for a few dishes like Pad Thai or Tom Yum Goong. But in recent years, there has been awareness created across the world about Northern Thai cuisine, which has an array of popular dishes that vary from Southern Thai cuisine, which has its own set of culinary creations.
In the years to come, I believe that Thai cuisine will be defined by the name of a particular town or village in Thailand that specialises in a certain style of Thai cuisine. And I am sure that is how it is in India as well, where Mumbai or Bengaluru have their own local cuisine offering regional delights, and so on. Similarly, in the coming years, every place in the world might have its own cuisine.
Have you worked with each other before? How are you able to collaborate seamlessly together?
Varun: This is not the first time I have cooked with Pam and Ton. We cooked together last year in India, once in Potong and at Le Du as well. We are not just part of a collaboration; we have grown to become good friends. We think along the same wavelength, and we have exchanged so much understanding about each other's cultures. For instance, Pam specialises in Thai-Chinese-style cooking, and Ton represents everything that is authentic Thai. I have learned so much about the food, culture, ingredients, and more from them. And they have gained a lot of insights about the Indian style of cooking from me.
When we collaborate to make a common menu, although flavours, styles, and ingredients may be different, there are similarities that we can draw from each of the cuisines that we represent, and we work on those aspects to craft a flawless menu. It is also a trial-and-error situation where we experiment together and blend flavours to bring out some of the unique dishes.
Pam: Indian spices and the ones we use in Thai cuisine are similar in many ways. A curry is the best example of how we can blend in some of the spices like chillies, cumin, and turmeric to make the dish, be it an Indian or Thai curry. The Indian influence on Thai cuisine goes back to the spice trade era, many decades ago. Thus, many Thai dishes draw inspiration from Indian spices and cuisine. And with that knowledge, we are able to work well together.
Ton: We think alike, and we've been friends for a while now. Pam and I have gained a lot of understanding about Indian culture and food by interacting with Chef Varun. And so has he about ours. And, if I were to try food in India, I would only do so if Chef Varun recommended it (laughs).
What is the source of inspiration for your menu concepts?
Varun: When I was studying in New York, I was introduced to so many ingredients that I thought were never available in India. But India is a large country with different landscapes. I was surprised to find many of those ingredients growing in our backyard without people being aware of them. This has been a great source of inspiration that motivates me to work with these unique ingredients and introduce great produce in a special way to people.
Pam: I love to cook with my mom because she is a homemaker and cooks for the family. I learned from her that we can make someone happy through food. I would cook a simple bowl of noodles for my parents when I was 13 years old, but the happiness I felt when they liked what I cooked was priceless. And that is the moment that inspired me to make people happy through food.
For me, it is always about innovating and doing something new to surprise the guests. When creating a menu, I look forward to doing something that has never been done before. It includes a lot of brainstorming of ideas, too. I love art and drawing. Therefore, sometimes the concepts for a menu come from this source of inspiration naturally, and other times, art helps me design great concepts with a little effort.
When we eat food, we eat with our loved ones, which includes family and friends. And whenever you eat food that reminds you of your childhood or other pleasant memories, you feel happy, and food allows you to experience the emotions that arise. At the end of the day, when guests leave your restaurant happy, it means that you've managed to touch people's hearts, and I feel that's how you will and should be remembered as a chef.
Ton: When I am travelling and interacting with people, that is when I think the best and come up with ideas as well. We change the menu quite often at Le Du, and the constant interaction about the upcoming produce with the farmers and fishermen that we source our produce from gives me a lot of inspiration to work on new ideas.
What ingredients do you like cooking with? And what is your comfort food?
Varun: Having lived in Mumbai for a while, pav bhaaji is my comfort food on any given day. Also, I am a big fan of barbecue, and I enjoy the grilled meats and veggies.
Ton: Pad ka pow is my favourite. It is a Thai stir-fry dish made with holy basil, minced meat of your choice, garlic, chilli peppers, and other seasonings. In fact, it is the comfort food of most Thai people. If you asked 10 Thai people about their comfort food, I am sure 9 of them would say pad ka pow. I also draw comfort from curry. Chillies and coriander are my favourite ingredients that I enjoy cooking with. I believe these ingredients elevate a dish by many folds. But I don't cook at home or allow anyone to cook at home. It feels like I am at work when I smell food or see an ingredient. Therefore, I don't like to smell or see food at home. In my fridge, all you will find is wine, water, and beer.
Pam: Pad ka pow is my comfort food as well, which, by the way, we already had in India two days ago in Mumbai, which was surprising and felt good. I like to cook eggs in many different forms. I think it is an underrated ingredient. You can do mayonnaise, fried or scrambled eggs, and many more dishes.
Are there any variations in how pad ka pow is prepared in Thailand?
Pam: Yes, each household and region has its own version of pad kha pow. The use of spices and other ingredients varies for this dish. I grew up with my mom, who used to add beans, and I like it that way.
Varun: I think this happens everywhere. It is like one of those dishes where everyone has their own style and adds their own variations to prepare it and call it authentic, like a biryani or a chicken curry in India, for instance.
What is your take on sustainability as a chef?
Pam: Sustainability is a big thing across the world in the food industry. At Potong, we try to do our best to be sustainable. We are mindful to not waste and pay importance to utilising ingredients with a nose-to-tail approach. For instance, fish bones are not discarded. We fry them until they are crispy and then dehydrate them to serve them in a dish. Since we take reservations in advance, there is not much waste in our restaurant.
Ton: In my point of view, sustainability means sourcing the ingredients locally from farmers and fishermen. This way, we respect and support the local farmers and fishermen and the produce that they give us. We get to use the freshest, most seasonal, and organic ingredients that maintain the quality of the food we serve. And even if we have to pay a bit extra, I see it as giving back to the community that makes a priceless contribution to society at large. And it is also about utilising the ingredient in the best possible ways. For instance, in Thailand, we use the stem and the root of coriander while making curry paste or so, but when I went to America, I could get only the leaves to cook with, and it was so disappointing!
Varun: I agree with both chefs. Supporting our local farmers by sourcing ingredients from them and creating interesting dishes without wasting resources is how we practise sustainability too.
