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Letting the masalas shine may be the secret hack to actually making a great vegetable biryani. There's been plenty of commentary about which component is the more important in a non-meat biryani, whether it's the aromatics or the vegetables or the rice. Madhur Jaffrey, in her cookbook, Vegetarian India: A Journey Through the Best of Indian Home Cooking, shared that she prefers separating the whole spices before mixing in the rice. So, the aroma still stays in the biryani but the bigger spices don't.
But the hack that Jaffrey points out is something that helps you in more than one count; it doesn't just deliver the perfect texture on the biryani rice but also helps the rice absorb the masala better. The technique is cooking everything partially, be it the vegetables or the rice. Cooking the rice completely will render it overdone in the final dish. Chefs across the world believe in leaving the rice al dente before mixing it in the final mixing pot.
The Right Prep
But it's not quite so simple, because the rice needs quite a bit of prepping to let the aromas seep in. Most experts swear by the absorption method which entails bringing rice to boil in a pan with a pint of cold water, before turning down the heat and simmering until all the water has been absorbed. The rice will be swollen and fluffy but not quite fully cooked.
If you're infusing butter and cream into your biryani, chances are you'll need to figure out a way to accentuate your spice profile. However, if you're using the standard masala paste or garam masala, it's easier to highlight the spice blend. Sweet garam masala is common, along with a little turmeric, cumin and a bit of chilli powder. Saffron and Shahi Kashmiri Jeera can be great additions. if you're going for a biryani masala, however, you can cut down on the other species. There is a trick to helping the rice absorb a stronger essence of the masala blend.
Rinse the rice twice in warm water, then drain. Heat the 100ml of oil for the rice in a large pan over high heat for 30 seconds. Now, add the rice, salt and masala paste (or spice blend) and stir gently for a minute, then pour in 650ml of boiling water. Boil the rice uncovered over a high heat for 10–11 minutes, until almost all the water has evaporated and it starts to look dry.
