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The Festival of Lights is here again and with it comes a host of traditions old and new. Diwali is one of those special occasions that isn’t tied together simply by religious belief but by a spirit of community and togetherness where everyone can come together and celebrate the triumph of good over evil. Cleaning and decorating houses, visiting with friends and family and of course, sharing traditional sweets and delicious meals, it’s all part of the Diwali magic.
Every region in India has its own favourites but as the years have passed, a lot of those time-honoured traditions have started slipping away, not quite forgotten just yet, but close. Fusion foods and modern interpretations have stolen the show and these traditional recipes are quickly fading from the limelight. They live on in some small way through the homes that make them part of their Diwali feast but let’s take this Diwali to remember them and honour the timeless dishes from around the country.
Kheel Batashe
There was a time that no Diwali was complete without kheel batashe but now its become a rarity even in the north where it was undoubtedly the most popular. Kheel refers to a form of puffed rice that along with batashe – small flattened bites of sugar – are offered to gods during celebrations at home for food security and wealth of the household.
Anarsa
The Anarsa is unique in that its main component is rice flour as opposed to wheat flour, sweetened with jaggery and often flavoured with banana and poppy seeds. It’s one of those sweets that breached the divide and has equal popularity primarily in Bihar and Maharashtra and a version of it called Arisa is also eaten in Orissa – although, in a fantastic plot twist, it was first conceived in Damarua village in Uttar Pradesh.
Dudhati Pole/Kanhole
Hailing from Maharashtra, these sweet crepes made from rice flour are a rarity outside of very small villages of the state. Served with condensed milk enriched with cardamom and nutmeg the best way to enjoy the kanhole is to have it like a pancake – stack one pancake over the other and then smother it with fragrant condensed milk,
Suran Sabzi
Also known as Jimikand Sabzi in Banaras where this dish hails from, this dish is a favourite among traditional households because it holds an auspicious or religious connection. Since Jimikan (elephant foot yam/suran) grows in the earth and leaves behind some of its roots during the harvest process, it’s thought to represent an unending renewal or wealth.
Mangane
Though Goa isn’t best known for its Diwali celebrations, the state has its own loves and traditions, one of them being the dish of manganem, a type of kheer made with chana dal and sabudana. Similar to the payasam of the south, this dish is thick, creamy and usually served warm although it can also be chilled and served alongside fresh puris.
Annakoot Sabzi
This labour intensive dish may owe its decline simply to how complicated it can be to source the 56 ingredients that are required to perfect it. Translated, annakoot literally means “mountain of food” and on this day Hindu devotees worship Mount Govardhan by preparing and offering large amounts of food to represent a bountiful harvest.
