Thalassery Biryani: A Classic Dish With Rich History From Kerala
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The history of Thalassery biryani dates to the 18th century, during the reign of the British East India Company. The town of Thalassery was an important centre for the spice trade, and it was a melting pot of different cultures and cuisines. The local Mappila community, which is a Muslim community in Kerala, had its own traditional recipe for biryani, which they used to prepare during special occasions and festivals.

During British rule, Thalassery became an important military base for the East India Company. The British officers stationed in the town were introduced to the local cuisine, including the biryani prepared by the Mappila community. They were impressed by the unique taste and aroma of the dish and started to request it on special occasions and at parties.

The Mappila community, who were known for their hospitality, started to prepare biryani on a larger scale for the British officers and their guests. They added some of the British ingredients, like potatoes, raisins, and cashew nuts, to the traditional recipe, which gave it a unique flavour and texture. Over time, the Thalassery biryani became a popular dish not only among the British officers but also among the locals.

The preparation of Thalassery biryani involves several steps and requires a variety of spices and herbs. The key ingredient of the dish is the short-grain rice called khyma or jeerakasala rice, which is cooked separately from meat or vegetables. The meat, usually chicken or mutton, is marinated with a blend of spices and yoghurt and cooked separately with onions and tomatoes. The rice and meat are then layered and cooked together in a sealed pot, which allows the flavours to blend.

One of the unique features of Thalassery biryani is the use of khyma rice, which is fried in ghee and added to the dish. This gives the biryani a distinct texture and flavour that sets it apart from other biryanis. Another unique aspect of the dish is the use of spices like fennel, cinnamon, and cloves, which are not commonly used in other biryanis.

Thalassery biryani has gained popularity not only in Kerala but also in other parts of India and abroad. Many restaurants and food chains have started to offer their own versions of the dish, but authentic Thalassery biryani can only be found in the small restaurants and eateries in Thalassery and its surrounding areas.

Here's a recipe to make Thalassery biryani:

Ingredients

  • 1 kg chicken or mutton, cut into medium-sized pieces
  • 500 g khyma rice
  • 4 onions, sliced
  • 4 tomatoes, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons ginger-garlic paste
  • 2 cups yoghurt
  • 2 tablespoons ghee
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
  • 3-4 cinnamon sticks 
  • 5-6 green cardamom pods
  • 3-4 cloves 
  • 2-3 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric powder
  • 2 teaspoons of red chilli powder
  • 2 teaspoons of coriander powder
  • 2 teaspoons of garam masala powder
  • Salt, to taste
  • Fresh coriander leaves for garnish
  • 2-3 green chillies, sliced (optional)

Method 

  • Wash the basmati rice and soak it in water for 30 minutes.
  • Heat the vegetable oil in a large pot and add the cumin seeds, cinnamon sticks, green cardamom pods, cloves, and bay leaves. Fry for a few seconds until fragrant.
  • Add the sliced onions and fry until they turn golden brown.
  • Add the ginger-garlic paste and fry for a few more minutes.
  • Add the chopped tomatoes, turmeric powder, red chilli powder, coriander powder, and garam masala powder. Mix well and cook until the tomatoes turn mushy.
  • Add the chicken or mutton pieces to the pot and stir well. Cook for a few minutes until the meat is browned.
  • Add the yoghurt and mix well. Add enough water to cover the meat, season with salt to taste, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the meat is cooked through.
  • In a separate pot, bring water to a boil and add the soaked basmati rice. Cook for 8–10 minutes until the rice is almost done. Drain and set aside. 
  • Preheat the oven to 180°C.
  • Take a deep baking dish and grease it with ghee. Layer the cooked meat mixture at the bottom, followed by a layer of cooked rice. Repeat the layers until all the meat and rice are used up. Pour any remaining liquid over the top.
  • Cover the baking dish with foil and bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes.
  • Remove the foil and garnish with fresh coriander leaves and sliced green chillies (if using). Serve hot with raita or pickles. Enjoy your delicious Thalassery biryani!

The history of Thalassery biryani is a story of cultural exchange and culinary innovation. The dish has evolved over time, incorporating local and foreign influences, to become a unique and beloved part of Kerala's cuisine. Whether you are a foodie or a history buff, a plate of Thalassery biryani is sure to leave a lasting impression on your taste buds.