Appe & Bajbaje: What Does Ganesh Chaturthi Look Like In Goa?

For Chef Manu Thakker, who grew up in Panjim in the 80s, Ganesh Chaturthi was about crispy Nevri for breakfast and day-long adventures with his friends. “It would be quite intimate but we had a lot of fun!” he smiles. It’s no secret that While Ganesh Chaturthi is celebrated across India, in Goa, this festival carries its own distinctive flavour, deeply influenced by the region’s Konkani culture. In Goa, Ganesh Chaturthi, also known as Chovoth, spans across two to ten days/

“Food plays a central role during the festival, especially for youngsters. But I would also observe the things which would be part of the ritual, like the Naivedya, for instance, which is a big part of the puja. My favourite food was the Nevri, which is sort of a deep-fried snack and it has many versions. It’s also known as Karanji in other parts of India, It’s a deep-fried dumpling filled with a sweet mixture of coconut, sesame seeds, jaggery, and cardamom. It is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside and it’s this contrast which so appealing. Homemade sweets were a key part of the celebrations in my home when I was growing up. Now, however, things have changed somewhat,” shares Thakker. 

Many people may not know this but In Goa, the celebration of Ganesh Chaturthi dates back to before the Kadamba era (960–1318 AD). Despite the Portuguese Inquisition, when all Hindu festivals were banned, devout Hindus continued to observe the festival in the privacy of their homes. A unique tradition in Goa is the creation of "dekhavas" (displays) in many village households, where Ganesh is worshipped. 

The villages of Marcel and Cumbharjua take this tradition to the forefront, with families and groups crafting intricate and captivating displays. Streets come alive with vibrant lights and decorations, while the atmosphere hums with devotional songs. In addition to Marcel, Rannyanche Juvev, a small island village in North Goa with around 30–35 houses, is one of the best places to experience Chaturthi. Every house on the island creates dioramas based on Indian mythology, making it a must-visit destination for Chaturthi enthusiasts.

Home chef Mani Sarna, who is known for her Konkani delicacies observes Ganesh Chaturthi in Goa is best defined by its diversity. Take Ukdiche Modak, for instance, which is very popular in Goa. The reason behind its appeal is definitely the fact that it’s steamed. These modaks are also offered as the primary "naivedyam.” It is believed that offering 21 modaks is ideal for the deity,” Sarna shares.

"Ukdiche" refers to steamed, which is the method of preparation, and "modal" refers to the sweet itself, symbolising prosperity and blessings from Lord Ganesha, who is said to be particularly fond of this dish.

In Goa, the preparation of Ukdiche Modak is a family affair, with generations coming together to make this delicacy. The process begins with kneading a dough made from rice flour, which is prepared with great care to ensure the right texture—soft, yet firm enough to be moulded. 

The filling, called "saran," is made from freshly grated coconut, jaggery, and sometimes a touch of cardamom to enhance the flavour. Some families add a bit of grated nutmeg or saffron for a fragrant twist. The saran is cooked until the jaggery melts and the mixture achieves a sticky consistency, bringing out the deep, earthy sweetness of the jaggery and the rich texture of the coconut.

Shaping the modaks is a delicate process. The rice dough is flattened and shaped into a small cup, which is then filled with the coconut-jaggery mixture. The edges are carefully pleated and closed, forming the signature conical shape that resembles the crown of Lord Ganesha. These modaks are then steamed in a traditional vessel called a "pedavan," lined with banana or turmeric leaves, which impart a subtle flavour and aroma to the modaks.

Chef Thakker also draws attention to the diversity when it comes to Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations in Goa. “Many sweets that are made during this Chaturthi are also served in other festivals, like the Neveri which are offered to Baby Jesus during Christmas,” he says.

Mooga Gaathi, made from whole green beans, is a beloved dish in Goan cuisine, especially during Ganesh Chaturthi. Moong sprouts symbolize prosperity and good fortune, making this dish a meaningful offering to Lord Ganesh. Mooga Gaathi is a savoury, soupy preparation featuring moong sprouts cooked in a coconut-based gravy, seasoned with mustard seeds and curry leaves. This dish is sattvic, meaning it is made without onion or garlic. The unique blend of tamarind and jaggery adds an unusual and delightful flavour to this festive dish.

Moong holds special significance during Ganesh Chaturthi due to its symbolic association with prosperity, and in Hindu rituals, moong is often regarded as a symbol of growth and renewal, making it an ideal offering to Lord Ganesha, who is revered as the deity of new beginnings, wisdom, and success.

During Ganesh Chaturthi, dishes like Moong Gaathi, made from moong sprouts, are prepared as a sattvic offering; they are free from onion, garlic, and other ingredients that may disrupt spiritual energy. Moong, being highly nutritious and easily digestible, aligns with the principles of purity and balance that are central to the festival's rituals. 

“I think now that more and more people are exploring the idea of mindful consumption, a sattvic diet during this festival is gaining a lot more significance. In Goa too, I see so many of my friends preparing moong items. Moong Gaathi is really popular but it’s also used for different dishes,” she says.

A unique Konkani sweet made during Ganesh Chaturthi is Patoli, which consists of rice flour batter spread on turmeric leaves, filled with a mixture of grated coconut and jaggery, and then steamed. The turmeric leaves impart a distinctive earthy flavour to the sweet. 

“Patoli is widely loved in Goa; it's made with bright green turmeric leaves and golden coconut filling which creates a vibrant contrast. Other Konkani sweets also gain prominence in Goa during this festival. You can find something like a Patoli or Mitha Fov (a sweetened flattened rice dish made with jaggery and coconut) in sweet shops but when it comes to other Konkani sweets like sweet appe and dudali are made at home and rice flour, coconut milk, and jaggery are the main stapes used in these dishes,” says Sarna.

“I think it’s important to remember that Goa's Konkani food is a true fusion of coastal flavours and one of the unique aspects of Konkani cuisine is its diverse blend of influences, including traditional Hindu Goan fare, Portuguese colonial influence, and regional Konkani ingredients. This is why the use of coconut, rice, and local spices is so prominent. Then we have the native staples which are spices like tamarind, kokum, cardamom and cashews which have been incorporated over the decades,” says Thakker.