Surjya Kumar Modak: The Sweet Shop That Invented The 'Jolbhora'

Bengal's Chandannagore is renowned for its rich cultural heritage and historical significance; during Durga Puja especially the town transforms into a vibrant spectacle of lights, attracting visitors from all around. However, Chandannagore is also quite famous for its food, particularly its sweets. Among its many attractions, Surjya Kumar Modak Sweet Shop stands out for its iconic history.

The sweet shop was founded during a period when Chandannagore was experiencing significant growth. The city, known for its colonial architecture and vibrant culture, was a hub for trade and commerce. It was here that Surjya Kumar Modak, an enterprising individual with a passion for confectionery, decided to open his shop.

Initially, the shop, situated at GT Road (East) started as a modest venture, with a focus on traditional Bengali sweets. Modak, influenced by the culinary practices of Bengal, aimed to create authentic sweets that reflected the region's rich culinary heritage. The shop quickly gained popularity among locals for its quality and taste, setting the foundation for a legacy that would last for generations.

Like many small businesses of the era, Surjya Kumar Modak faced numerous challenges. The competition was fierce, with many sweet shops vying for customers’ attention. However, Modak’s commitment to quality and authenticity set his shop apart. He sourced the finest ingredients, ensuring that every sweet was made with care and precision.

As word of the shop’s exceptional sweets spread, it began to attract a larger customer base. The shop’s offerings included a variety of traditional Bengali sweets, such as rasgulla, sandesh, and mishti doi. 

In 1818, Surjya Kumar Modak, an ordinary confectioner from Chandannagar, received a unique request from the zamindars of Mankundu. They asked him to create a riddle-filled sandesh to play a trick on their son-in-law. Embracing this challenge, Modak devised an innovative treat: the Jolbhora-sandesh. He ingeniously added rose syrup to the typically dry honeycomb centre of the Sandesh.

With a bite, the Jolbhora-sandesh releases sweetened rose water, avoiding the dryness that usually accompanies traditional sandesh. The unexpected spill of rose water added an element of surprise and fun, delighting guests who never anticipated such a twist. The launch of Jolbhora was a resounding success, and its legacy continues to thrive in local markets and in major cities nearby.

The Jolbhora sandesh features a soft, dry outer layer of sandesh, filled with a surprising burst of sweetened rose water, which spills out upon biting. This refreshing contrast captivates the palate and distinguishes it from other sweets.

The name "Jolbhora," meaning "filled with water," reflects its distinctive characteristic of oozing rose-flavoured syrup, offering a playful and unexpected experience. Beyond its taste, Jolbhora is steeped in cultural significance, often enjoyed during festivals, weddings, and family gatherings, symbolizing joy and celebration.

The craftsmanship involved in making Jolbhora, along with the high-quality ingredients used, contributes to its reputation. It embodies the essence of Bengali sweets—combining tradition, creativity, and a deep-rooted love for flavours. As a result, Jolbhora has secured its place not only in local markets but also in the hearts of sweet lovers across Bengal and beyond

After India gained independence in 1947, Chandannagore saw a transformation in its social and economic landscape. Surjya Kumar Modak Sweet Shop adapted to these changes, expanding its menu and introducing new sweets to cater to the evolving tastes of its customers. The shop became a go-to destination for celebrations, festivals, and special occasions, reinforcing its place in the community.

The introduction of sweets for specific festivals, such as Poush Mela and Durga Puja, helped the shop further establish its reputation. It became a tradition for families to visit the shop to purchase sweets during these festive seasons. The shop’s dedication to quality remained unwavering, and it continued to thrive as a symbol of local pride.

Over the decades, Surjya Kumar Modak Sweet Shop became more than just a business; it evolved into a family legacy.

The shop also serves as a testament to the art of Bengali confectionery. The craftsmanship involved in making sweets is celebrated in the region, and Surjya Kumar Modak has contributed significantly to this culinary tradition.