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The aggressive splutter of mustard seeds and curry leaves in hot oil coupled with the aromas of asafoetida wafting in the air during the Navratri festival in Tamil Nadu means that a warm portion of sundal – tempered chickpeas – will be ready shortly. What is most popularly enjoyed as a snack preparation across the state, along with parts of Kerala and Karanataka – the sundal is a legume-based preparation which is most often earmarked for festive occasions. Also served as part of a larger wedding or temple feast, a variety of beans and legumes such as chickpeas, black-eyed peas, boiled peanuts, kidney beans and horsegram are typically utilised.
Origins & History Of The Chickpea Snack
The ceremonial snack – which is of Tamil origin – was first known to have been served to presiding deities in temples, and later distributed amongst visiting devotees. What can be best described as a warm salad – was made traditionally by tossing cooked chickpeas in a tempering of mustard seeds, curry leaves, fresh grated coconut and red chillies. During the Tamil month of Puratassi that typically occurs between September and October, the delicacy becomes a key detail that is intangible to the grand doll arrangements and cultural celebrations.
Mythologically, the auspicious nine-day period dedicated to goddess Durga, is believed to also be a time of pleasing her due to the faith that she curries favours towards beans. Largely centred around women extending their courtesies by visiting each other’s homes to offer their respects, the sundal preparations are distributed as prasadam, along with vethalai-paaku and kumkumam powder. Aside from this, it is also said that women savouring the legume preparation during this time owe sustenance to the goddess, as she triumphs over evil forces and protects them.
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Contemporary Variations
While traditional styles of making sundal opt for a minimalistic route – and only limiting the tempering to a handful of ingredients – ingredients like corn, soyabean and even pasta have also made their way into the local palate. A lentil and spice blend called sundal podi is also sprinkled on top of some varieties to boost flavour and also give it a nubbly texture. What’s most interesting about the sundal is that the humble snack is satisfying without being on the nose or attempting to bask in the spotlight. That said, it is virtually impossible to separate the delicacy from the festivities – given that the collection of small packets of the snack from various homes around the neighbourhood is a core food memory most children participating in the rounds grow up with.
Bowl of Good Health
Beyond the religious significance of how sundal became a part of the Navratri festivities, an objective perception also allows one to understand that the protein-dense, low-calorie snack is a great source of energy during the balmy season where one tends to lose salt and micro-nutrients as a result of perspiration, according to Chennai-based nutritionist, Divya Mohan. “The cusp of seasonal change, also called Sharad ritu, coincides with the festival also means that the average human body temperature rises leading to a hunger pangs – especially during the evenings. The sundal offers a feeling of satiety while also ensuring that it curbs the tendency to overeat and eventually cause bloating,” she adds.
In addition to this, eating nine different types of legumes that make up the naivedyam offered and distributed means that one has access to rich sources of calcium – a nutrient that Mohan believes is important for bone health. For a festival that is dedicated to empowering women, the foods prepared traditionally during the season also echo the idea by advocating a nutritional boost. For those who have adapted the cultural ways into their food, Navratri days have specific types of naivedyam sundals dedicated to each one.
A table of traditional Navratri naivedyam offerings
