Share
THEY SAY EAT WHAT YOU GROW. However, not many of us enjoy the luxury of the infrastructure and logistics that come with that practice. As a Rajasthani, I'd love a pinch of homegrown Mathania red chilli in my curd. Or grow the millet that I gorge in the form of roti or khichdi every winter. For instance, what Alila Fort, Bishangarh doesn't grow, it borrows from the neighbouring village and fields. It made organic sense that its sister concern, Alila Diwa in Goa, also follows a similar path, despite its geographical limitations.
With its coastal cuisine restaurant Spice Studio, Alila Diwa sources spices and pickles from India's Southwest coastal regions of Kerala, Karnataka, and Goa itself. Not only that, it even puts together the restaurant space bit by bit from the local artisans of these areas. We see spice racks, old teakwood partitions, and rosewood furniture borrowed not only from neighbouring vintage Portuguese homes but also the local markets of the very coastal regions it sources its ingredients from. Never have I seen Karnataka's Byadagi chillies in a pretty translucent bar add so much flavour to a space.
The pickle tray they serve as one waits for the food encapsulates everything that the restaurant stands for – an ornate handmade wooden box sourced from Karnataka, with four types of papad – made of dal, rice, and sabudana – served alongside assorted dips prepared from raw mango, yoghurt, coriander, green chilli, and tamarind among others, respectively. One can lounge under the majestic banyan tree that's placed as the axis mundi of the colonial-style bungalow. Spice Studio is indeed like sitting inside an art or film studio – it feels incomplete and transient, yet is the home to a lot of flavours, skills, and creations.
For starters, I'd recommend their rasam, served piping hot from a tin kettle. The tin and the tamarind work their magic gradually, with every sip turning the concept of diminishing marginal utility on its head. Try the Water Chestnut Rissoles, crispy, shallow-fried patties stuffed with cashew nuts and raisins, garnished with crunchy fried tapioca strands. Or the Modso Kothambari, lemon fish fillet served with a coriander-infused, richly flavoured creamy coconut sauce, accompanied by Goan sannas.
For the main course, if you have a threshold for heat, try the Kundapura Kori Curry, prepared primarily with Byadagi chillies. Or there's Muringakka Thenga Pal Curry, a Kerala-style drumstick and coconut curry for those with less tolerance for spice. If your spice preference is somewhere between the two, go for the Kuri Kalu Bafat, a lamb shank prepared in Mangalorean Catholic style, paired with nool parotta. Vegetarians can savour the Chutta Tharkari Nachina Unde Karie, char-grilled vegetable dumplings filled with cheese, complemented by richly flavoured fried onions, spices, and a coconut-based gravy.
Alila Diwa Goa may not have the warm hospitality and rich local flavours of Alila Fort, Bishangarh. But Spice Studio helps it boast of a laid-back experience – resting inside an old-school Portuguese bungalow next to the sea, with the best catch and the most flavourful spices at your disposal. And don't worry if you invite too much heat in your belly. There's always the Palm Jaggery Banana Crumble, a fine blend of warm jaggery and cold whipped cream, to douse that fire.
Spice Studio, 48/10 Village Majorda, Adao Waddo, Salcette, Goa 403713, India | Open: 7:00 PM – 10:30 PM | Call for reservations at: +91-8326951234
