Parrots, Palaces & Plates Of Perfection: The Charm Of Paantya
Image Credit: Everyone from real-life to reel-life royalty has dined at Paantya and savoured its many charms.

A PANDEMONIUM OF PARROTS is perched on a stately Bakula tree, the jade of their feathers merging into the green of their home and rendering them invisible but for the telltale signs of their scarlet red beaks. For a moment, one is taken aback by the beauty of the scene—the rippling wind, the quibbling birds, and the dazzling sun just making his daily appearance.

It could’ve just been a view from a jungle safari, such is the sous and serenity the scene presents. It wasn’t even close. I was having breakfast at Paantya, the storied restaurant at the crescent-shaped Shiv Niwas Palace in Udaipur, built in the early 20th century that has been dazzling patrons since the 1980s.

The past is also the present in Rajasthan, and more so in Udaipur—the land of Maharana Pratap, Lake Pichola, and Shree Eklingnath ji. Time flows effortlessly here; from the exploits of the Maharanas to the days of curious cameras in search of content, there is space and solace for everyone and everything.

Dining here is an immersion into a world where history, culture, and art collide contemporaneously to create a looking glass into the past. Everyone from real-life to reel-life royalty has dined here and savoured its many charms.

The Shadow of History

The royals of yore loved their luxury, and every part of the Palace reflects the fact, even the restaurant. The domed ceilings, decorative mouldings, gold latticework, vintage mirrors, and ornate chandeliers all compete for your attention. The black-and-white checkered marble floor and the lovely pastel tones of the interiors complete the regal setup.

Art is in abundance at the 1714-square-foot restaurant, and the walls are bursting with original paintings of stately Maharanas done up in the Mewar style. The seating is well spaced out (so the laughter at the table next does not interrupt your thoughts), and the ones facing the windows are only for the early birds. Light filters in regally through the square-shaped windows, buffeted by plush seats playing up the details and the décor.

The name Paantya, derived from a Mewari term meaning 'sitting in line, in protocol,' sets the stage for an experience of utmost reverence for tradition while offering modern luxuries.

The setting of the restaurant alone is worth the visit. Perched elegantly above the palace grounds, the restaurant boasts sweeping views of Udaipur’s vibrant cityscape. Its elevated position, combined with its grand, undulating topography, creates a dining experience unlike any other—one where you dine in a space as luxurious and opulent as the Maharanas of Udaipur themselves once did.

Paantya’s bones might be that of an old-school palace, but its spirit has been shaped into a celebration of the present. The influence of the Raj is visible in the dazzling white tablecloths (so pristine you treat them reverentially), the floral motifs in the furniture, or the dainty little jams cars presented to guests at breakfast.

From Mughlai to Mewari

The menu at Paantya is a true tribute to the diverse culinary influences that have graced the region. The multi-cuisine offerings range from delicate Continental to rich Mughlai, with a strong emphasis on the authentic, vibrant flavours of Rajasthan. Each dish is crafted with the utmost attention to detail by Corporate Chef Love Mathur, bringing to life the region’s storied culinary traditions. Whether it’s the tender kebabs, the spice-laden curries, or the inventive continental dishes, Paantya is a place where food becomes an art form.

The mutton shammi kebab, made from finely minced meat, blended with aromatic spices, herbs, and lentils, offers deep flavours with each bite, while the mutton gilafi seekh is a royal treat that offers a smoky, tender, and aromatic experience. Vegetarians should try the dahi munnaka ke kebab that brings together the richness of yoghurt (dahi) and the sweetness of raisins (munnaka), creating a deliciously balanced dish.

When in Rajasthan, what else would you indulge in but the Lal Maas? Here it is elevated to an art form with the heat from the chillies balanced by the richness of the meat and the savoury notes of the spices, creating a dish that is both intense and comforting. Another option is the Macchi Jaisamand, a delectable fish dish that pays tribute to the rich culinary traditions of Udaipur, particularly around the famous Jaisamand Lake. This dish is made with fresh, local fish that is marinated in a flavorful blend of spices, herbs, and a hint of yoghurt. The fish is then cooked with a sauce made from ingredients like tomatoes, onions, ginger, garlic, and aromatic spices, which infuse the fish with deep flavours.

Vegetarians will not go wrong with the papad mangodi ki subzi or the methi gatta curry, both Rajasthani comfort dishes. While the former brings together two beloved ingredients: papad (crispy lentil crackers) and mangodi (fried lentil dumplings) to create a rich, spiced gravy, the latter is where the earthy bitterness of fenugreek (methi) leaves combines with spiced, steamed gram flour dumplings (gatta) to create a unique and aromatic dish.

Two days are certainly not enough to savour the menu here, and there is a lot that we left out. Special mention must be made of the royal treatment here, where the guests are cajoled into having just one extra dish or naan, making one forget that they are eating at a restaurant, not at a favourite maasi’s home.

For sweet endings, try the Orange Syrup Cake or the langcha with rabdi, both of which come highly recommended, and you dig in with the belief that you will burn these off while walking around the sprawling palace grounds!

Unchanging charm

I visited Paantya for the first time in the harsh summer of 2018 and returned in the chill of December 2024. In a world that is so full of change, it was lovely to realise that a small slice of the world remains untouched. With travel becoming increasingly crammed with experiences and things to do, places like these offer the ultimate luxury—of quiet and of just being in the moment.

As the parrots continued with their chatter amongst the verdant foliage, I watched them with a sense of fondness while taking in the fiercely rouged beauty of my sylvan surroundings.