Oyster Mushroom Tonak: A ‘Meaty’ & Spicy Goan Curry Spin-Off

Tonak, a spicy Goan curry eaten for breakfast with freshly baked pao, has slowly risen to fame. The coconut-based curry, usually made with cowpeas, captures the essence of life in Goa in more ways than one. Although, off late, iterations with mushrooms and oysters have also gained popularity, the originally vegetarian curry offers a break from all the seafood clutter that Goan cuisine is typically known for.

That said, this oyster mushroom tonak, almost feels like a meat curry due to the texture of the mushrooms, once cooked. Often associated with having a ‘briny’ flavour, this variety of mushrooms replace the seafood and yet, retain the velvet density that any kind of shellfish would normally have. The mushrooms also derive their name from their resemblance to oysters and come in multiple varieties that one can seem to find quite easily in supermarkets or online grocery stores, these days. While you could replace the oyster mushrooms with button mushrooms or any other type of mushroom of your choice, nothing can quite replicate the meatiness of this specific variety.

Ingredients:

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• 450 grams king oyster mushrooms
• 1 cup fresh grated coconut
• 2 onions, sliced thin
• 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
• 6-7 dry red chillies
• 6 whole black peppercorns
• 2 clove pods
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 1-inch piece ginger
• 8 cloves garlic
• 1 small piece cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon turmeric powder
• 1 teaspoon garam masala
• 3 tablespoons concentrated tamarind pulp
• 4 tablespoons vegetable/coconut oil
• Salt to taste

Method:

Image Credits: Oyster Obsession

• Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth and slice each one lengthwise, into threes. In a dry pan, toast the coriander, black peppercorns, red chillies, cloves and cinnamon until toasty and aromatic.
• Heat a couple of tablespoons of oil in a pan and add the sliced onions. Caramelize them on a medium-high heat until they start to develop a darker colour and add in the coconut. Toast the grated coconut also until it begins to brown. Transfer the caramelized coconut and onions to a blender jar along with the toasted spices, ginger and garlic. Add a couple of tablespoons of water and grind into a smooth paste.
• Heat some oil in a pan once again and add the ground paste and cook for a minute or two. Add the bay leaf, turmeric powder and tamarind pulp to the paste along with a little bit of water to thin the mixture to a gravy-like consistency.
• Once the gravy begins to simmer on the sides, season with salt and add in the mushrooms. Allow them to cook until they become floppy and sprinkle some garam masala on top to finish off. You could garnish the dish with some chopped coriander if you like and serve hot with pao or dosas.