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When monsoon hits the region of Bengal every year, there is a ritual that every household goes through: stepping into the local fish market, cutting through the crowds, getting a great deal for fresh Hilsa or Ilish, and bringing it home to a kitchen where everything is ready for the special Ilish dish to be cooked and relished for lunch—whether it’s a simple Bhaja, a steamed or Bhapa, or an elaborate Paturi. The ritual usually continues till the end of Durga Puja, the most important festival on the Bengali annual calendar. The ritual is ingrained, and so is that love for Hilsa, considered to be the best fish variety by most Bengalis.
Yes, most Bengalis, not all. Note here the fact that there is that deep cultural divide among Bengalis—that of Ghotis (West Bengalis) and Bangals (East Bengalis, mostly originating from present-day Bangladesh). To say that the recent ban—and more recent lifting of the ban—on Hilsa exports to India by Bangladesh has brought immense focus to the fish variety again is an understatement. Any time this fish makes it to the news, it evokes the sentiments of Bengalis across both sides of the India-Bangladesh border. There are plenty of reasons why.
Ganga, Padma-Ghoti, Bangal: About Fish Culture Wars
It is widely believed that Hilsa dishes in Bengali cuisine have originated in Bangal households, while Ghotis have always preferred Rohu, Katla, Bhetki, and even prawns. Bangal recipes for Ilish vary from region to region, and with the pre- and post-Partition migration of Bangladeshi Bengalis to West Bengal, these Ilish dishes slowly gained popularity among Ghotis too. For all Bangals, irrespective of religion, even today, the love for Ilish is beyond compare.
Then there's the matter of the source. If you thought competing over Mohun Bagan and East Bengal football clubs was a big deal for Bengalis, you should just listen to a debate over which is better, Hilsa from River Ganga or River Padma. For most Bangals, Padma Ilish is a hands-down winner because of its bigger size and salty flavour, making it the most popular of Hilsa varieties. You would rarely find a Ghoti who truly loves Ilish arguing against this statement, and hence all the recent angst about the Bangladesh Hilsa export ban.
The Recent Bangladesh Hilsa Export Ban And Revocation
Given this shared love for Hilsa among most Bengalis, post-Partition Bangladesh has had a long tradition of exporting Padma Ilish to India, specifically Bengal, especially during peak season. This year, however, it felt for a while that this shared tradition of appreciating Hilsa would change. Earlier in September, Bangladesh had banned the export of Hilsa to India during the upcoming festive season of Durga Puja. Thankfully, Bangladesh's Ministry of Commerce has just approved the export of 3,000 tonnes of Hilsa to India, keeping the huge uproar and appeals in mind.
“Against the backdrop of appeals by the exporters, approval has been given to export 3000 tonnes of hilsa fish (to India), fulfilling the specific conditions on the occasion of the upcoming Durga Puja,” the ministry's statement read. “To obtain permission, applicants should approach the relevant wing of the ministry."
And while this news bodes the true coming of the festive season for most Bengalis, one has to ask a crucial question: Is the hype around one fish variety, Hilsa, in Bengali cuisine truly justified?
A Matter Of Access And Price Points
Before diving into this, do note the fact that this author is not only a Ghoti but also a Probashi at that. Being brought up in states like Punjab, Gujarat, and Karnataka in the 1990s and 2000s meant the least amount of access to Hilsa and more exposure to other fish varieties, dishes, and fish-eating cultures. There were no Bijoli Grills and Oh! Calcuttas to go to for a taste of the revered Hilsa, which means that while today, I do hold some amount of appreciation for this fish variety, the love for it isn't as blinding as it might be for most Bengalis. This is also true for many Probashi Bengalis across India and the world.
But it isn't just Probashi Bengalis who have limited or no access to Padma Hilsa even today. The commercial demand for Hilsa is so high these days that the fish is sold at what Bengalis would call "aagun daam" (price on fire), especially if you are picky about the variety of Ilish sourced from Padma, Ganga, Rupnarayan, and Damodar. So, it's not just the poor who gravitate towards the cheaper Rui, Charapona, Bata, etc. even during monsoon—so do those from the middle class. Ilish makes its way into these homes only on the most special occasions, meaning at most twice or thrice in a year.
For Probashis, however, access is limited despite quick transportation and freezing options today. For example, over the last two years in Pune and Mumbai (cities with a thriving seafood culture and significant Bengali presence), Ilish has been available only during July-September (often sourced from the sea rather than Bengal’s rivers), and that too at exorbitant rates. Tiger prawns, Bhetki, and Pabda are often cheaper than that! Naturally, for Probashi Bengalis in other states, Hilsa is a rare indulgence reserved only for occasions like Jamai Shashti and Durga Puja.
Unsustainable Hilsa Fishing: A Matter Of Concern
Going by recent Hilsa fishing trends, this tendency of the fish variety becoming more endangered--and therefore, costlier--is quite high. Reports from earlier this year suggest that the trend of fishing juvenile Hilsa in the Ganga estuary has increased even though it is a punishable offense in certain parts of the region, especially Bangladesh. These reports reveal that fishing trawlers capture small or juvenile Hilsa in the dead of the night and then smuggle them to different parts of the estuary for sales in the morning.
The fact is, juvenile Hilsa being fished will leave the population of the species depleted if not allowed to grow and spawn as nature dictates. However, due to the high demand and popularity of Hilsa across both sides of the India-Bangladesh border, this unsustainable practice is unlikely to abate any time soon. The hype around Hilsa in Bengali food culture, unfortunately, adds to this trend further.
Shorshe Pabda
There Are More Fish In The Sea, Literally
But, as any Bengali who has basic knowledge of food (and have you ever met a Bengali who doesn’t?) will tell you, despite all the hype, Hilsa isn’t the only beloved fish on the plate. Yes, Ilish has a unique taste, and in Bengali restaurants across India, it often holds a prime spot. Yes, non-Bengalis usually believe Bengali cuisine is dominated by fish, specifically this fish. But in no way is the Hilsa the only fish a Bengali loves to indulge in, nor is it the sole symbol of the region’s food culture.
Instead, based on personal choices, family history, class, caste, religion, and location, Bengalis eat fish of all varieties available to them. In fact, Bengalis are (in)famous for combining different types of fish with vegetables—a rare habit among the fish-eating cultures of India! Be it a Chorchori made with Puti fish and eggplant, a tangy Tok made with Mourala fish, a pointed gourd stuffed with prawns or a Pabda Jhol made with bodi (lentil fritters), potatoes, and eggplants, the combination of veggies and fish to make a balanced plate is something that you’ll find in every household.
Gugli Posto is a popular dish from rural Bengal
And then there are all the fish and seafood dishes from Gram Bangla (rural Bengal) that are now making their way into commercial spaces too. The example of Gugli or snails comes to mind immediately! Pabda, Bhetki, Katla, and Chingri (prawns) continue to be favourites for festivities, but the options to explore in Bengali cuisine are truly unlimited.
So, do we really need to continue hyping up Hilsa’s place in Bengali cuisine or worry about any export bans? The clear answer is, no, not really. Despite its celebrated flavour profile, Hilsa is not the only fish or seafood that packs a punch and pleases Bengali or other palates. Despite the sentiments and love it evokes, the unsustainable fishing of Hilsa is leading to the species’ endangerment. And despite all the hype, there are better dishes that celebrate the variety Bengali cuisine has to offer than any single Ilish dish.
