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Onam is one of the most significant and vibrant festivals in Kerala, and it is celebrated all over the world. The festivities last 10 days and it’s essentially a harvest festival that is steeped in cultural traditions, rituals, and joyous festivities. It marks the return of King Mahabali, an ancient ruler of Kerala, whose reign is often remembered as a time of prosperity, happiness, and peace.
According to popular belief, King Mahabali is granted permission to visit his kingdom once a year during Onam, and the people of Kerala celebrate this homecoming with grandeur and warmth. Each day of the ten-day Onam festival has its own significance, with specific rituals, cultural practices, and a vast array of traditional food offerings that define the celebration. Food plays an integral role during Onam, and the culmination of the festival is marked by the Onasadya or Onam Sadya, a grand feast that features an elaborate spread of vegetarian dishes. Let’s explore this further.
Day 1: Atham
The first day of Onam is known as Atham, and it marks the beginning of the festival. It is believed that King Mahabali started his journey to Kerala on this day. People begin their preparations for the festival by cleaning their homes, making them welcome for the king. The day starts with the making of Pookkalam, a floral arrangement that grows more intricate each day. The Pookkalam is made using fresh flowers, and its size increases with each passing day of the festival. Atham is a day of simplicity and anticipation as people prepare for the upcoming celebrations.
The food prepared on Atham is relatively simple compared to the lavish meals that follow in the days to come. Traditional dishes like Thoran, a stir-fried vegetable dish with coconut, Olan, a light curry made with pumpkin and coconut milk, and Chor (rice) are commonly served. These dishes reflect the humble beginnings of the festival, with a focus on seasonal vegetables and light flavours.
Day 2: Chithira
On the second day of Onam, known as Chithira, the preparations for the festival gain momentum. The Pookkalam continues to grow as more flowers are added to it, symbolizing the increasing excitement of the festival. Families offer prayers for prosperity and happiness, and the shopping for new clothes, or Onakkodi, begins on this day.
The food on Chithira is more elaborate than that of Atham, as families begin to add more dishes to their meals in anticipation of the grand Onasadya. Sambar, a lentil-based vegetable stew, is a staple dish, along with Avial, a medley of vegetables cooked with coconut and yoghurt, and Papadam, crispy lentil wafers that provide a delightful crunch. These dishes introduce more complex flavours while maintaining the balance between simplicity and richness, setting the tone for the upcoming feasts.
Day 3: Chodhi
Chodhi, the third day of Onam, is marked by a flurry of shopping and preparation. It is a day for families to buy new clothes, gifts, and other festive items. The excitement of the festival is palpable as markets are bustling, and the Pookkalam becomes even more colourful and vibrant. New clothes are a significant aspect of Onam, as people wear their best attire to celebrate the homecoming of King Mahabali.
On the culinary front, Chodhi introduces a variety of festive snacks and sweets, as the meals become more elaborate. Payasam, a sweet rice pudding made with either milk or coconut milk and jaggery, makes its first appearance. Payasam is a quintessential part of Onam celebrations and is served in multiple variations throughout the festival. In addition to payasam, Banana chips, fried slices of plantains, are also a popular snack. These crispy chips, often coated with jaggery or lightly salted, add a crunchy element to the day's meals. The combination of sweet and savoury dishes enhances the festive spirit, signalling that the grand feast is drawing closer.
Day 4: Vishakam
Vishakam, the fourth day of Onam, is a pivotal day as it marks the beginning of full-fledged preparations for the grand feast of Onasadya. Traditionally, this day also signified the start of the agricultural year in Kerala, and it holds great importance for farmers. The excitement and energy around Vishakam are evident as households begin to procure and prepare the ingredients for the feast. Vegetables are sorted, spices are ground, and families begin preparing the multiple dishes that will be served on the final day of Onam.
The meals on Vishakam become more elaborate, reflecting the increased focus on food preparation. Kootu Curry, a dish made with black chickpeas, coconut, and a variety of vegetables, is introduced. Another popular dish is Erissery, made with pumpkin and beans cooked in a rich coconut paste. Pachadi, a tangy side dish made with yoghurt and fruits like pineapple, also makes its appearance. The dishes served on Vishakam are rich in flavour, combining sweet, tangy, and savoury elements. The culinary experience begins to reach new heights as people prepare for the climax of the festival.
Day 5: Anizham
The fifth day of Onam is known as Anizham, and it is a day of great excitement due to the famous Vallamkali or snake boat races. The boat races are a symbol of Kerala’s unity and strength, and they draw large crowds to the banks of rivers to witness the exhilarating event. Vallamkali is not just a sporting event but a cultural spectacle that embodies the competitive spirit and teamwork of the people of Kerala.
Given the high energy levels required for Vallamkali, the food on Anizham is hearty and nutritious. Pulissery, a tangy curd-based curry made with ripe mangoes or other vegetables, is a common dish served on this day. Inji Curry, a spicy and flavorful ginger-based chutney, adds a burst of flavour to the meals. Another dish often prepared is Upperi, which consists of fried yam or banana slices. These dishes are designed to provide sustenance and energy while maintaining a festive flavour profile.
Day 6: Thriketa
On the sixth day of Onam, known as Thriketa, families begin to reunite in their ancestral homes. This day is filled with joy as relatives come together to celebrate, share stories, and prepare for the grand feast that is approaching. Thriketa is also a day for paying homage to ancestors, with special rituals performed to honour the departed souls.
The food served on Thriketa continues to build in complexity and flavour. Theeyal, a curry made with roasted coconut, tamarind, and vegetables, is a popular dish that offers a unique combination of smoky and tangy flavours. Kalan, a thick yoghurt-based curry made with vegetables like yam and coconut, is another dish commonly served. Achaar, or homemade pickles, also play a crucial role in the meals, adding tanginess and depth to the overall flavour profile. The meals on Thriketa reflect the joy of family gatherings, with an emphasis on hearty, flavorful dishes that are perfect for sharing with loved ones.
Day 7: Moolam
Moolam, the seventh day of Onam, is when the festival’s cultural performances and temple celebrations take centre stage. Temples across Kerala host the Onasadya, a simplified version of the grand feast, and traditional performances such as Kathakali dances and Thiruvathira folk songs add to the festive atmosphere. Moolam is a day when the spirit of Onam is in full bloom, with communities coming together to celebrate through art, music, and food.
The meals served on Moolam are rich and diverse, featuring dishes that are closer in variety and scale to the final Onasadya. Puliserry, another variation of the curd-based curry, is spicier and more flavorful than earlier versions. Payaru Thoran, a stir-fried green gram dish with coconut, is a popular addition to the meal, offering a nutritious and tasty side. Kichadi, similar to pachadi but made with vegetables like okra, is also commonly prepared on this day.
Day 8: Pooradam
The eighth day of Onam, known as Pooradam, is a day of deep religious significance. Idols of King Mahabali and Vamana, the dwarf avatar of Lord Vishnu, are placed in the center of the Pookkalam, and prayers are offered to invoke blessings for prosperity and happiness. The Pookkalam, now a grand and intricate floral arrangement, symbolizes the collective effort of the community in welcoming King Mahabali.
The food on Pooradam reflects the day’s devotional mood, with special dishes prepared as offerings to the deities. Ada Pradhaman, a type of payasam made with rice flour, jaggery, and coconut milk, is one of the highlights of the day. Kootu Curry, made with an even richer coconut base and more vegetables than earlier versions, is also prepared. Parippu Curry, a simple lentil curry with a hint of coconut, adds a comforting and wholesome touch to the meal.
Day 9: Uthradam
The ninth day of Onam, Uthradam, is known as the day of preparation for the grand finale. It is believed that King Mahabali arrives in Kerala on this day, and families make their final preparations to welcome him. Homes are thoroughly cleaned, the Pookkalam is completed, and last-minute shopping for the Onasadya ingredients takes place. Uthradam is often referred to as Onam eve, as the anticipation of the final day reaches its peak.
The food on Uthradam is grand and elaborate, as families prepare an array of dishes that will be served during the Onasadya. Thoran varieties, such as Beetroot Thoran and Cabbage Thoran, add colour and texture to the meal. Avial is prepared in larger quantities, and Erissery, made with more generous portions of vegetables, takes on a richer flavour profile. Rasam, a tangy and spicy soup made with tamarind and tomatoes, is also a must-have dish, as it aids in digestion and balances the richness of the meal. The dishes served on Uthradam reflect the grandeur of the upcoming feast, with an emphasis on variety, flavour, and presentation.
Day 10: Thiruvonam
The final and most important day of Onam is Thiruvonam, the day when King Mahabali is believed to visit each household. Thiruvonam is a day of grand celebrations, and the highlight of the day is the Onasadya, an elaborate vegetarian feast served on banana leaves. The Onasadya is a symbol of prosperity and abundance, and it features a vast array of dishes that reflect the rich culinary heritage of Kerala.
The Onasadya typically includes more than 20 dishes, each with its own unique flavour and texture. Staples like Rice, Sambar, Parippu, and Avial form the base of the meal, while Olan, Kootu Curry, and Pachadi add variety and richness. Pickles such as Mango Achaar and Lemon Pickle provide tangy contrasts, while Papadam and Banana Chips add crunch to the meal. The grand feast is rounded off with multiple types of Payasam, such as Ada Pradhaman, Palada, and Parippu Payasam, offering a sweet conclusion to the meal.
The Onasadya is not just a meal; it is an experience. The flavors range from tangy and spicy to sweet and savory, and the dishes are designed to create a harmonious balance of tastes. The feast is served in a specific order, with each dish complementing the next, creating a culinary journey that celebrates the richness and diversity of Kerala’s food culture.
