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This article is part of Slurrp's Friday Food Walks. Catch up with our previous tours, through Chennai's Sowcarpet, Kolkata's Simla Mishti Para, Chandigarh's Punjab University precinct, Jaipur's MI Road, Ahmedabad's university-centric trail, Hyderabad's Sindhi Colony, Old Delhi, and Srinagar's Dargah Hazratbal.
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COLABA wakes up before the sun rays from the East shine through the Indo-Saracenic arches of the Gateway of India. In the dimness of dawn, the rare crisp sea breeze blows the fishing boats to safe harbour. At the Sassoon Dock, from where opium and cotton were exported almost 150 years ago, it's what the tide brings in that matters today. The fresh catch that five-star sous chefs haggle over is Indian mud crab, plump pink shrimp, moonlight-bright pomfret, and silvery-grey mackerel.
7 am: The white-clad drivers of the black-and-yellow taxis roll out of the backseats of the Santros and wash the sleep from their eyes along with their cabs. The ones who did good business the day before head to Olympia Coffee House to treat themselves to a hearty breakfast before starting their gruelling day in Mumbai traffic. And that's where I suggest we start our breakfast trail in Colaba.
The small white saucer of greasy, spicy keema (roughly minced goat meat), unctuous yet undeniably delicious with just the right amount of chew, is accompanied by puffs of soft, white bread with a golden crust.
The pav, considered a very local Bombay bread, actually has its roots in the Portuguese occupation of the city. Not only did they christen Mumbai bom bahia (good bay) but they also bequeathed the art of baking to its people. Mopping up the vestiges of the gravy with it is a pleasure that I urge even the most elegant diner not to forego. If you're vegetarian, you'll relish the generously buttered bun-maska with Irani chai.
8 am: Our next stop is Mag St Cafe, as different from the century-old dive as chalk is from cheese. Here, while everyone swears by the gooey goodness of their Eggs Benedict (the ones with Pork Chorizo or Smoked Salmon are extra special) and delicate omelettes, I recommend the Danishes. My personal favourite is the caramelised onion-and-feta filling, but the mushroom-and-gruyere, and the bacon-and-egg ones have their own fan following as well!
9 am: Next up, let's head to Kailash Parbat just a little further south. Another iconic joint that hasn't changed (thankfully) in the four decades we've been frequenting it! It introduces every new generation to Sindhi specialities, North Indian faves, and an array of chaats and sweets that will have you hooked. But why am I bringing you here this early in the morning? It's to dig into their perfectly dished-out daal pakwan. This is a mildly-spiced channa daal (split lentil) curry, drizzled with a thin and tangy mint chutney, which is eaten with the crisp, deep-fried puri-like pakwan. The combination of this simple Sindhi staple is spectacular. Available between 8 am and 10.30 am on Sundays, the approximately 100 portions they make get sold out pretty fast, so let's step up the pace to get there in time!
9.30 am: The Kuckeliku Breakfast House crows about its stellar breakfast. And does live up to the hype. A morning cafe if ever there was one (it rises early and shuts at 6.30 pm!), it offers a variety of elaborate breakfast spreads that often take me through to brunch. But since we're doing a trail and have already eaten quite a bit, here is my recommendation for the menu items that are truly unmissable at this cheery cafe. If you eat meat, their smoked sausages are plump and juicy. I usually team them up with the flaky croissant which comes with different fillings. The rosemary toffee apple one is sweet but heady, with the perfect amount of crunch and creaminess.
10.30 am: Let's work up an appetite and walk further south to Hotel Saurabh near the Colaba Bus Station for some lip-smacking South Indian fare. If my word and that of the other locals who've been frequenting this Udipi joint for decades isn't enough, check out the photographs on the left wall as you enter. Pop star Madonna has relished the chai here and tried several other dishes, so you're in good company. In my opinion, the dahi vada is well worth the walk. Perfectly fried and crisply rising from a lake of tempered yoghurt that's exactly as thick and sweet as it should be, no less and no more. That they've been serving up this dish consistently for decades is nothing short of a miracle. Or perhaps, a secret mother recipe.
11 am: If, like me, you believe strongly in the concept of breakfast dessert, then you'll especially love our last stop back up the road, in the middle of the chaos that is Colaba Market. Tucked away in second Pasta Lane (named for a business heavyweight not the carb-heavy Italian staple!), is The Cacao Mill by Subko. The chocolaterie run by the guys behind Subko Coffee gives you everything you can imagine from a high-ceilinged space dedicated to the elixir. Whether you choose the pure chocolate cubes (big or small) or bakes oozing with fudgy fillings and more, or just go for the thick and dark hot chocolate as I do, it's the sweet ending that's guaranteed to take you to your happy place.
