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Delhi was declared British India’s capital in the year 1911, but prior to that as well, Delhi was a city steeped in culture, art and elegance. Countless emperors dressed Delhi in their andaaz, the remnants of Raj also complete the beautiful mosaic that this city is emblematic of. Due to the presence of many communities, Delhi is also often dubbed as the microcosm of India. Which is why, when Varq, Taj chose to pay tribute to the culinary treasures of Old Delhi, that too on the occasion of India's 75th Independence Day, we were fairly excited.
Varq, the modern Indian restaurant of Taj Mahal Hotel has been a favourite among patrons for its wide menu and luxury fine dining experience. We sat down on one of their tables, overlooking the majestic courtyard, waiting for the special spread of the day.
The New Menu Review:
Featuring a mix of street food and rich Mughlai, Nizami and Punjabi preparations, the spread was an exquisite mishmash of elements screaming 'Dilli'. There were obvious crowd-pleasers like Murgh kebabs, but also many dishes that are severely underrated even within the capital, even though they have been amidst us since time immemorial. Kanji, the fermented winter drink that is enjoyed during Holi, was made into a delectable soup with coriander leaves, the aromatic Zaffrani lamb was so tender that all hard-core mutton lovers would never forget its taste, the little touch of silver varq made for a memorable addition. Kali gajar ka halwa, another old Delhi specialty made with black carrots was reimagined as a hot tart, the special sweet dish was served with pan-infused ice cream, which was served on a bed of gulkand crumble. The dark chocolate ganache and the caramel strand made this special dessert replete with distinct textures.
Kali gajar ka halwa tart | Photo credit: Sushmita Sengupta
While serving us Chef Aditya told us about the exact corner of Delhi each dish was inspired from. For instance, with Kanji soup, we were also served two mini stuffed parathas, one with juicy minced, butter chicken filling and the other with a palak paneer filling. The parathas were inspired by the Parathe wali gali, but the choice of filling was simply an homage to two of Delhi’s most beloved dishes of all time.
Varq's chole bhature | Photo credit: Sushmita Sengupta
Another dish that truly bowled us over was their super edgy chole bhature. The chole or the chickpeas were minced into this fine mixture, and shaped as Galouti kebab. They were served with mini bhaturas and avocado and mint chutney. The classic Boti kebab was also deconstructed. Served on Ulte Tawe ka paratha, this shredded mutton kebab was cooked in all possible rustic spices with a hint of maltodextrin, that helped thicken it further and where do we even begin talking about the sheer medley of colours in all these dishes.
Varq's Boti Kebab | Photo credit: Sushmita Sengupta
The paya received a unique treatment in terms of presentation too. The pulled lamb trotters were served on a plate with a few microgreens, a soothing soup was then served on the trotters later. The paya was served with classic Galouti and baked sheermal.
Not all dishes were as experimental, some were deliberately kept ‘drama-free’. The Murgh Kebab for instance, where the chicken pieces were marinaded in copious amounts of saffron, butter and cream and cooked in tandoor, the richness permeates within the flesh and makes for a memorable treat. It was served with tomato chutney and raw mango relish.
Murgh Kebab | Photo credit: Sushmita Sengupta
In the mains, we also strongly recommend you try the Murgh Makkhanwala. Chicken confit with all possible masalas you can associate with butter chicken, served with Makhani gravy, with the side of some shredded chicken. Do try it with their special camembert and chocolate naan.
Chocolate and camembert naan, Zaffraini lamb, Murgh Makkhanwala, Dhungar dal, Chatpate aloo | Photo credit: Sushmita Sengupta
The new menu was unvelied at Varq on ocassion of Independence day. You can enjoy the special menu with your loved ones across all week.
Where: Varq, The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1 Mansingh Road
Cost For Two: INR 5000
