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Where do chefs eat when they clock out? In our special series, Off-Duty Chef, we ask some of the most popular chefs about their favourite food spots in and around their cities. From their go-to street food haunts and their childhood favourites to their work lunches and post-work hangs, the series will offer you a glimpse of where your favourite chefs eat, drink and hang out when they’re not feeding others!
It wasn’t until 2022 that Chef Thomas Zacharias started Locavore where he could bring together his love for storytelling, his explorations of local produce, and his commitment to connect with people within the Indian food system. But the chef's love for hyper-local food goes way back.
“I love chaat, I know how to find the best chaat in any Bombay neighbourhood; for instance, there’s this one guy in Juhu who’s very good and Ram & Shyam in Santacruz West,” he quips.
Zacharias’ work with regional cuisines, indigenous communities and locally grown produce, (especially millets), has anchored several important food initiatives. A few weeks ago, Chef Zacharias also became the first Indian guest chef at the Oxford Food Symposium 2024, which is held at St. Catherine’s College in Oxford annually, and brings together food writers, historians, chefs, and experts from across the world.
On Instagram, Chez Zacharias shared that his dinner was themed around ‘Forest as the Garden in an Era of Climate Crisis,’ and highlighted foraged ingredients from both India and the UK through a menu of regional Indian-inspired dishes, featuring ingredients such as thoran, matta rice, mahua and kokum.
But where does the chef go when he needs to grab a quick chai or some vada pav in Mumbai, which has been his home for 14 years? Chef Zacharias took some time out to share some of his go-to Mumbai food spots which he frequents on his days off.
Do you have any favourite breakfast spots?
I don't typically go out for breakfast, also I'm not someone who eats breakfast every day. I grew up in Kerala, and my breakfasts were actually quite diverse. But among the ones I really like in Mumbai are Prakash (Prakash Shakahari Upahaar Kendra) in Dadar which is a Maharashtrian place, Ideal Corner in Fort and Olympia Coffee House in Colaba, which is famous for its Bun Maska and Keema Pao.
Any go-to cafes or tea spots?
I find myself going back to Subko a lot. The coffee is good and they’re constantly pushing boundaries on their sourcing. I love working out of cafes, I do it at least a couple of times a week.
Responsible sourcing has been a big priority for you. Are there any cafes or eateries you admire for how they handle sourcing?
One of my favourites is Project Hum in Bandra, they have a focus on sourcing directly from farmers, so they’ve been building a network of farmers across Maharashtra for the last couple of years.
Most of their produce is sourced locally, they make sure the farmers are paid fairly and at the same time, they are working towards building a relationship with them. What they’ve also managed to do is to put out food that is familiar but interesting and really delicious. This summer, I collaborated with them and I used vegetables like lauki and bhindi etc.
Do you have a favourite when it comes to modern cuisine?
There's something new that has opened up, it's Otra, run by Chef Alex Sanchez. He’s exploring his Latin American roots with the menu, it’s incredible and my mind was blown. Everything from the cocktails to the decor and the food, is a fist-bump. I was very impressed.
Do you have any favourite bakeries or dessert places?
I do! This is a relatively new place called Maska Bakery run by Chef Heena Punwani; the bakery is an ode to Bombay, playing into the memories and nostalgia of the city but with modern interpretations. It’s old-school Bombay meets European pastry and it’s really good. They’re using seasonal fruits and I think the chef makes the best birthday cakes in Mumbai!
How do you feel about street food? Any favourite spots or neighbourhoods?
One is Ashok Vada Pav (near Prabhadevi), which is by a long margin one of Mumbai's best vada pav spots. I was just there a few days ago for an office party and I picked up 15 vada pav and I had to wait in line for 45 minutes! I also love chaat and kebabs, there’s a great kebab spot near Byculla which I like.
Do you have any favourite grocers or markets, where you get your shopping done?
I usually go to local mandis near my home but I do keep going back to the vegetable market on Grant Road, to check out what’s in season and also for like inspiration
Tell us how you feel about the food scene in Mumbai
What I really love about the current food scene is that it blends food with art, community, music, and culture. I love experiencing anything immersive, live or interactive. There's an organisation called Town Drive that does live gigs that are free to attend and they feature local food brands, or a festival like Spoken where there’s poetry, spoken word and local food. I spoke about Maska Bakery and they organise neighbourhood walks so people can explore their neighbourhoods this is something that’s been growing in Mumbai
