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If the Parsi adage ‘khaavanu, peevanu, majjani life’ (eat, drink, enjoy life), was true by any means, then the coastal town of Udvada in the Valsad distruct of Surat would be a haven for leaisurely eating. While the state of Maharashtra has been home to the diminishing community and its many iconic Irani cafés around the city of Mumbai, making your way to the birthplace of the Zoroastrian community within the country is a fitting way to sample some authentic fare.
Udvada – a town that was first home to Iranian immigrants who escaped the tyrannical rule of the Muslim rulers in Persia, later segregated into Parsis and Iranis – with distinctive differences in both cuisines. While the former chose to adapt to Indian dietary affiliations, the latter decided to preserve their Persian influence over their food. The town, mostly known for members of the community visiting the Atash Bahram fire temple, is also known to house some of the most lucrative places to eat – especially if food is central to your experience.
Breakfast
If you plan on driving down to Udvada from Mumbai or Gujarat, a highway pit stop during the 4-hour long journey to grab a bite must kick-off with breakfast at Ahura. Located a couple of hours before Udvada, the iconic restaurant is famous for quintessential Parsi breakfast staples like the akuri – a spicy take on scrambled eggs, salli par eedu – eggs on crispy potato straws and a delicious Parsi-style omelette. Make sure to sip on a cup of their mint-infused pudina chai before you proceed further for a second breakfast after you arrive in Udvada. For hunger pangs that might crop up then, enjoy a portion of their mildly-spiced keema pav or aleti paleti – made using chicken liver and gizzards. Enjoy the delicacy with soft rotis on the side, finishing off your meal with another cup of tea before you meander around town.
Lunch
Image Credits: Raymond Irani
Whether you choose to board at the Globe Hotel or simply stop by for lunch, be prepared to dig into a sumptuous feast of salli marghi – chicken cooked with crisp potato straws, pulao dal and a marinated, pan-fried boi fish for a full Parsi extravaganza. Nibble on their famous Russian chicken cutlets as you wait for the food to arrive at your table. For lunch with a sea view, drive a little further to reach Ashishvangh Hotel to sample a range of Parsi classics – tareli machhi (fried fish), dhandar patio – sweet and sour yellow dal with prawns cooked in tomatoes and end with the sweet delicacy of ravo – a semolina pudding made with dry fruits and nuts.
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For those who enjoy planning an itinerary for trips in advance, place a reservation with Perviz Rabadi for lunch, at her Dastoor Baug Dharamsala. The home-style meals dished out by her catering business is known to serve up some of the most amazing patra ni machhi – a preparation of fish coated in green chutney and steamed. While it might be considered sacrilege to stop by an Irani bakery to pick up your fill of crisp, flaky khari biscuits, cardamom-laced mava cakes and nankhatai biscuits to nibble on your walk around town, do so and make sure to pack some for the ride back home.
Snacks
As the sweltering heat of Udvada beats down upon one while you walk along its quaint streets, make a beeline looking for an autorickshaw parked next to the Udvada well. What’s considered to be a long-standing tradition of sancha – or hand-churned ice cream made with actual fruit pulp. The rickshaw, armed with a mobile refrigerator, is most known for doling out scoops of fresh mango ice cream or flavours based off of what fruit is in season. Definitely one to add to your bucket list!
Can you spare more space in your day bag to carry home E.F. Kolah’s assortment of sweet and savoury pickles? Choose from their popular lagan nu achaar – a sweet Parsi wedding pickle, a pungent dried bombil pickle or their addictive sour mango pickle. Find yourself indulging in more small bites of chicken farcha – or Parsi-style fried chicken – packed fresh to-go from the Sohrabji Jamshedji Sodawaterwalla Dharamsala.
In-Betweens
City-slickers visiting Udvada and missing a glass of their favourite coffee or tea can replace it with the town’s very own range of offerings – a frothy glass of doodh na puff, made with a hung milk and sugar mixture and spiced with cardamom and nutmeg. Going dairy-free? Pick up a magenta-hued bottle of the locally made raspberry soda that’s available at almost every single establishment – as well as a top favourite choice of the Parsi community. Bring home a piece of your authentic Parsi experience in the form of the many traditional spice blends that might catch your eye – think dhansak masala, vindaloo masala, Parsi curry powder and vinegars to stock up your pantry.
