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Iyengar cuisine is one of the more nuanced and interesting sub-sections of Indian cuisine. This largely stems from its origins - the Iyengar community dates back to around 1100 BC, when a group of Kannadigas converted to Sri Vaishnavism inspired by the teachings of Sri Ramanujacharya. Today, the community makes up just three percent of the state’s population, with most families migrating to neighboring states and other countries.
Iyengar cuisine is completely vegetarian, and is prepared without onion or garlic, heeding sattvic tradition. The nomenclature of the dishes is rather unique, reflecting the respect the community has for its food. The suffix ‘Amudu’ is attached to the name of every food item: Saathamudu (rasam), Kariamudu (stir fried vegetables), and Thirukkannamudu (payasam), among others. The cuisine also features unique ingredients used for tempering with ney(ghee), namely, Manathakkali (black nightshade berries), and Veepampoo (neem flower). Aside from lending a unique taste to the Tamizh cuisine, both ingredients are also touted for their supposed medicinal values. The Iyengars place an emphasis on a balanced diet, with dishes that are mildly spiced, usually with podi, or with tempering. Rice and lentil based preparations dominate most of the community’s fare, with dosas, idlis, and curd rice consumed almost everyday. Some members of the community consume a diet limited to just fruit every fortnight.
Iyengars have long been a part of the Indian diaspora, with migration to different countries since the 1950s. Today, the USA houses one of the largest Iyengar populations outside India. The community has adapted their culture to adjust to the way of life in their host country. One thing, however, remains unchanged: the cuisine. Iyengar communities all over the US have set up several F&B ventures that cater to south Indians and locals alike. These ventures range in scale from large companies that produce dosa batter and prepackaged meals to family run restaurants that showcase Iyengar cuisine.
Iyengar families abroad had to do away with a lot of staples that were readily available back home. While most Indian spices are available in the US, in supermarkets, or ecommerce platforms, niche ingredients like Manathakkali and Veepampoo proved hard to come by. They could only be obtained through friends or family that brought them from the motherland. Most Iyengars resorted to onion and garlic to flavor their food, refraining from using the ingredients only on holy days. With the advent of globalization, the food habits of Indian Iyengars have undergone a transformation as well. Millennials gravitate away from the traditional fare owing to the cuisine's strict dietary restrictions, and families have begun incorporating western vegetables into the cuisine, a practice that was once considered sacrilege.
The US has its fair share of south Indian restaurants, with migrants running outlets all over the country for generations. South Indian fare has been enjoyed by celebrities and food critics alike, with the Temple Canteen in New York gaining prominence thanks to celebrity patrons like Padma Lakshmi and Antony Bourdain. The temple serves Tamizh food with options that are Jain/Iyengar friendly. New York is also home to Semma, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the world centered around South Indian cuisine.
Not too far from New York is the township of Edison, New Jersey. Named after Thomas Edison, who had his main laboratory in the Menlo Park section, Edison is home to one of the largest Indian populations in the country, with over 25% of the town being Indian, or of Indian descent. Edison was one of the prime choices for early Indian settlers. ‘Little India’ is home to more than 400 Indian business establishments, a good number of which are restaurants.
No trip to Edison is complete without dining at Swagath Gourmet. Established in 1991 by Sesha Iyengar, the restaurant started out serving traditional Iyengar fare. Today, Sesha runs the restaurant with his older brother Murali and sister-in-law Padma. Sesha manages the restaurant while Padma and Murali helm the kitchen. The restaurant specializes in South Indian food and features a wide variety of both Iyengar and Kannadiga dishes. Over the years, Sesha Iyengar and his restaurant have adapted to changing times, even incorporating other cuisines into their menus, namely Indo-Chinese and North Indian dishes. Many such owners of Iyengar outlets also make efforts to pass on their culinary heritage to younger generations, offering cooking classes centered around their traditional cuisine in response to requests made by locals over the years.
