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The National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA) has always been a cultural landmark for Mumbai. It has been a melting pot in the true sense for artists, orators, and creators from all over the country and also a place where the city witnessed some of the most respected International talent.
Established in 1969 it was founded by JRD Tata and Dr. Jamshed Bhabha to preserve and promote India's diverse artistic heritage. The cold coffee and chicken sandwiches sold at the NCPA Canteen have been iconic. Though there are a couple of eateries on the premises, NCPA’s latest addition is quite different in both its setting and offerings.
Waarsa, which means “inheritance” attempts to tell the story of Awadh and its cooks through the flavours, aromas, and techniques that have been passed down through generations. Launched by the Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality (ABNAH), the hospitality arm of Aditya Birla Group, the restaurant is a collaboration between Chef Rahul Akerkar and Chef Mukhtar Qureshi who have built a culinary experience that is both authentically rooted in Awadh and also adapted to contemporary tastes.
“We’ve crafted every detail of Waarsa to reflect the essence of Awadh in a way that is both understated and elegant. To create this, we immersed ourselves in the diverse culinary landscapes of Lucknow, Benares, Kolkata, and beyond, deeply engaging with the history and nuances of this remarkable cuisine,” says Chef Rahul Akerkar.
Chef Mukhtar Qureshi, a member of the legendary Qureshi family renowned for their strong Awadhi lineage, leads the kitchen. Chef Qureshi is known for his profound respect for tradition as well as contemporary culinary practices. “I am from Lucknow and I came to Mumbai to work. The food from my hometown has always had a special place in my heart.
My childhood memories of growing up in Lucknow, where my family operated traditional restaurants have always inspired the food I cook,” says Qureshi.
“Awadhi food is available in so many places in India. However, the menus mostly feature dishes and recipes that originated in the royal kitchens. While those dishes are great, the repertoire of Awadhi has so much beyond that. For me, Waarsa represents a deeply personal journey. The menu reflects my childhood memories of home-cooked meals and the rich stories from my family, all the while incorporating the culinary voice I’ve cultivated over the years. People always say that Awadhi food is heavy. That’s also because they havn’t tasted the simple Awadhi food cooked in home kitchens. My food honours the authenticity of Awadhi cuisine and its historical roots, but it also introduces subtle modern touches to offer a lighter and more contemporary dining experience.” he explains.
The Place
The restaurant's design has been conceived by restoration architect Abha Narain Lambah who is known for her work on UNESCO World Heritage sites. The design doesn’t wow or overwhelm. It is subtle and classic. The pale pink walls are inspired by surkhi—a material traditionally used in historic buildings. The understated setting allows the food to shine under the spotlight.
What’s On The Menu
The cocktails at Waarsa showcase interesting uses of Indian spices in their recipes. Some signature cocktails include ‘The Emperor’s Rose’- gin, rose & cider shrub, cucumber, splash of tonic; ‘Gin Gilori’- gin, paan infused Campari, sweet vermouth, saffron, Cutting Old Fashioned- Bourbon, masala chai syrup, aromatic bitter, matri and Summers in Agra - which featuring Mezcal, musk melon, mango pickle, coriander and lime.
The food menu is vast. The unusual dishes on the menu include a delightful Chilgoza shorba. This broth made with pine nuts is deeply comforting especially on rainy evenings in Mumbai. The dish that made us want more was a subtle, sweetish, spiced orange soup that the chef sent our away. It had an instant “pick me up” quality about it. The flavourful Gucchi Biryani is another favourite. Chef Mukhtar Qureshi’s vegetarianLauki Aur Chana Dal Shikhampuri, tawa-seared, bottle gourd and chickpea kebab, melts in the mouth in the same simple fashion as the non-vegetarian Galouti. The menu features around 30 varieties of kebabs and more than 13 types of bread.
Other signature dishes include the Raan-e-Mukhtar, a slow-cooked goat leg in its own juices with a medley of home spices and then tandoor roasted and Daal Q-Man, kid goat slow-cooked in black masoor dal, finished with dill, bathua leaves and white butter. “Slow cooking food is an important part Awadhi cuisine,” says Qureshi who also insists that one tries the dishes that are made every day in simple Awadhi homes.
Video Credit: Sanjeev Kapoor Khazana
The Bhindi Kali Mirchi, okra tossed with yoghurt and cracked black pepper, Bhuna Bhutta Khaas Seekh, and grilled vegetable seekh with coal-roasted corn, are just some examples of this kind of cuisine that finds prominence in the menu. If Chef Qureshi does stop by your table, get him to dish out some delicious stories about Awadh’s culinary heritage.
