Maharashtra, Millets And The Region’s Rural Food: Sunanda Tai Pawar Explains

For the last 17 years, the city Pune, Maharashtra, has seen an annual gathering of unique proportions. Organised by the Agricultural Development Trust, the Bhimthadi Jatra is a carnivalesque coming together of the district’s farmers, especially women and those from tribal communities, and rural entrepreneurs. The highlight of this annual Bhimthadi Jatra is not only the produce harvested by the region’s farmers, but also incredible rural dishes that city folk rarely ever get a taste of. 

Also Read: Meaningful Millets Are Taking Over Kitchens Everywhere

Hailing from a humble farming family from Baramati herself, Sunanda Tai was always familiar with the everyday rigour that Maharashtra’s farmers go through, especially in areas with low irrigation and rainfall due to drought-like conditions. But as most people know now, it is precisely in such difficult climates of India that the best millets and climate-resistant grains come from. This understanding of the land, the farmers and the food has always motivated Sunanda Tai’s work, especially after she married into the Pawar family.

Over two decades, Sunanda Tai has focused on bringing Maharashtra’s farmers and millet growers into the limelight, while also giving them a chance to showcase the food of rural Maharashtra at the Bhimthadi Jatra. Right now, she is gearing up to continue this work at the Bhimthadi Jatra 2023, which will be held from December 21st to 25th at the Agricultural College Ground, Shivaji Nagar, Pune. In conversation with Slurrp, here is everything she had to share about Maharashtra, millets and the food that the region’s farmers eat. 

Water, Women And The Lifeline of Maharashtra’s Food 

The key area of Sunanda Tai’s work in rural Maharashtra is with women farmers and tribal farmers, and these groups often coincide. “The plight of women farmers in Maharashtra is underscored by factors such as a lack of education and prevalent superstitions, imposing numerous restrictions on them,” she explains. “Tragically, the wives of farmers who succumb to suicide often find themselves abandoned, grappling with familial resistance and the risk of losing land rights. These challenges emphasise the urgent need for targeted attention and support for women in the agricultural sector.” 

This is the reason why, through the Bhimthadi Jatra, her focus is always on putting women farmers in the limelight and even encouraging them to create dishes with the ingredients they grow and put them on sale at the festival. The motive is not only to generate awareness and some profits, but also to empower and enable these women to become independent. This apart, one of the main issues women and tribal farmers of the region face are related to water scarcity.  

“Water scarcity in drought-prone areas of Maharashtra severely impacts crop cultivation and has only one cropping season i.e, Rabi,” she explains. “This is leading to issues like poor germination, lower yields, and increased vulnerability to pests and diseases. The region is known for cultivating a diverse range of crops, including fruits like grape, pomegranate, and mango; grains such as wheat, sorghum, and bajra; legumes like gram and green gram; and various vegetables.” All of these crops, she explains, get affected by water scarcity, making the farmers’ work even more uphill. 

Millets And Dishes From Rural Maharashtra

So, working on water conservation and enabling women farmers are key areas of work for Sunanda Tai. But that’s not all, because as mentioned before, major yields from these drought-affected areas are the millets that the world is so taken with this year. She explains how the Millet Fair at the Bhimthadi Jatra particularly brings focus to these. “Millet initiatives in Maharashtra have gained momentum over the past six years, with dedicated efforts,” she explains.   

“Collaborating with over 500 self-help groups (SHGs), particularly 50 focused on millet, the trust is actively involved in millet product branding and marketing under the Bhimthadi brand,” she adds. “This project, sanctioned under the CSS Scheme PMF ME, emphasises the importance of promoting and sustaining traditional crops like millets.” The future, she says looks quite bright thanks to the love for millets the world is showing right now, especially leading to the revival of millet dishes. 

“Traditional millet recipes, though primarily preserved in rural pockets, are witnessing renewed interest due to changing lifestyles,” Sunanda Tai says. “The demand for ready-to-eat millet products like dosa and idli mixes is on the rise, reflecting a growing appreciation for the nutritional value and cultural significance of millets. The culinary landscape in rural Maharashtra is enriched with lesser-known yet delightful dishes, including Shipi amti, mutton pickle from Kolhapur, masvadi, pudacha ghavan, Mande, and Ghavachi kheer.” 

So, do Indian chefs and food enthusiasts have a role to play here? Yes, she says. “Indian millets stand out for their rich nutritional content and adaptability to arid and semi-arid regions, making them crucial for farmers facing severe drought due to climate change,” she explains. “Encouraging Maharashtrian chefs and restaurants to establish direct partnerships with local farmers and prioritise seasonal produce can be a significant step in stabilising agriculture.” 

The key here, she says, is to embrace the vocal for local mantra. "This will not only revive traditional grains but also contribute to the well-being of farmers facing uncertainties in the current climate scenario,” she says. This apart, she also highlights the need to eat seasonally and foster better understanding of the challenges faced by farmers. In effect, just adapting millets is not the way to go if you truly want to make an impact, she says. Rather, it is better to engage with the cultural heritage that Maharashtra’s farmers growing millets and other foods embody and preserve it for future generations.