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IN the ever-evolving landscape of culinary innovation, certain dishes transcend borders and tickle the taste buds of food enthusiasts worldwide. With its innumerable global iterations, Fried Milk demonstrates a culinary universe that is integrated and borderless.
Known as Zha Xian Nai in China, Gulab Jamun in India, Leche Frita in Spain, and Latte Dolce Fritto or Crema Fritta in Italy, this centuries-old food has captured the culinary attention of communities worldwide. And why wouldn’t it? This simple dessert, with a silky, creamy interior encased within a golden, crispy crust, is an explosion of textures and flavour.
SPANISH INNOVATION
Culinary experts, though, identify the origin of this mouthwatering confectionary in the heartland of Northern Spain. It is believed that the origin of Leche Frita stretches back as far as the 16th Century, when the country was grappling with a huge economic crisis. This crisis ensued as a result of many factors, including the unprecedented influx of American silver and gold, inflationary pressures, demographic transformations, and a discernible decline in traditional industries like textile and agriculture. Furthermore, the surge in Spain's population during this time placed heightened demands on resources, thereby exacerbating strain on the economy. It is during this time that Spanish convent kitchens birthed this culinary marvel, where resourceful nuns ingeniously transformed leftover milk into a scrumptious delicacy.
Beyond Leche Frita, hearty stews and dishes conceived out of leftovers defined this era of frugality. Cocido, a stew made out of chickpeas, vegetables and cheaper cuts of meat became an indispensable Spanish staple. Similarly, Migas was born out of the need to use up leftover bread. To make this Spanish breakfast staple, stale bread was crumbled and sautéed with garlic, olive oil, and occasionally chorizo and blood sausages. These dishes not only provided sustenance during times of economic hardship but also demonstrated the culinary ingenuity and adaptability of Spanish cuisine.
With no fancy equipment or ingredients in sight, it is only fair that Leche Frita has a simple, easy-to-follow recipe. The traditional recipe calls for simmering milk with a hint of cinnamon and lemon zest, which infuses it with a subtle fragrance. Once thickened, the mixture is spread onto a tray, left to set, and later cut into squares or rectangles. These delicate milk custard pieces are then coated with flour, egg, and breadcrumbs before frying until they acquire a sonorously crisp exterior. The end result is a warm, velvety interior surrounded by a golden shell, forming an exquisite contrast of textures.
AROUND THE WORLD
Indians are no stranger to the concept of fried milk. As a matter of fact, two of the most popular Indian sweetmeats — Gulab Jamun and Pantua — are made by frying milk. In the case of Gulab Jamun and Pantua though, the milk is curdled first, and the milk solids are fried in hot oil, and then submerged in a sugar syrup.
Italy boasts of two versions of fried milk: Latte Dolce Fritto, popular in central and southern regions, and Crema Fritta, a close cousin that showcases fried cream. While the names may differ, the essence remains the same. Milk, or a milk derivative, is transformed into a custard using flour, cornstarch, and eggs.
In Mexico, Leche Frita is conceived with a delightful twist — incorporating a touch of cinnamon and vanilla into the milk custard mixture. Once fried, it is dusted with powdered sugar and served with a side of rich caramel sauce. Portugal’s Leite Creme, on the other hand, features a velvety custard base, which is thickened with flour and eggs, and then caramelised under a broiler. This Portuguese delight combines the charm of a classic crème brûlée with fried milk.
In certain Chinese regions, ginger is used to curdle the milk. This custard or curd is then coated in breadcrumbs and fried, resulting in a delicate, crispy snack with a smooth centre. In northern China, Zha Xian Nai is consumed as a sweet and crispy treat, featuring a milky, pudding-like centre served alongside savoury dishes. Conversely, in southern China, custard milk is added to the savoury preparation of Chow Lai, a stir fry of shrimp, chicken liver, and Chinese ham combined with custardy milk and egg whites.
MODERN TAKES
Once a humble, home-cooked dessert, Fried Milk has been embraced by high-end restaurants and chefs around the world, who reinvent this treat with their unique perspectives. At Pamplona restaurant in Manhattan, Leche Frita takes inspiration from classic Spanish desserts, specifically the citrusy milk pudding Crema Catalana. Chefs here switch out the heavier spices of a traditional Leche Frita with the fresh, tart notes of lemon and orange. Similarly, the milk is thickened with gelatin instead of flour to impart an air-light texture to the dish.
Innovative twists on fried milk can also be found in modern Indian cuisine. New York’s Elettaria reimagines the dessert through its fried milk doughnuts, inspired by gulab jamun. The joint modernises the dish by replacing a portion of dehydrated milk with whole milk, taking down the sweetness by decreasing the time the doughnut soaks in rosewater syrup, and serving them with ginger custard and milk tea ice cream.
Other restaurants offer a savoury take on fried milk, serving garlic fried milk as a side dish for marinated lamb. This dish pays homage to the sweet shops of Hong Kong and showcases the versatility of fried milk in different culinary contexts.
As food artisans continue to experiment with innovative pairings and presentations, one thing remains certain: food is truly a global unifier, and Fried Milk serves as a testament to the staggering scope of culinary fusion, with cultures and traditions coming together to create a truly global gastronomic experience.
