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If there are two sweets that non-Bengalis believe to be synonymous with Bengali cuisine, it is Rasagulla and Mishti Doi. The latter has become so popular that dairy products manufacturers now sell them in cups, faux matkas and real matkas at outlets across the country. You no longer need to step into Bengal, let alone its food and political capital of Kolkata, to get a taste of good Mishti Doi. But there is, in fact, one variety of this sweetened yoghurt that is still peculiar to Bengal—and that’s Lal Doi.
The uninitiated may ask what’s the difference between Lal Doi and Mishti Doi, to which the simplest answer is that the agent or ingredient used to sweeten the yoghurt makes a huge difference. Mishti Doi can in fact be of many varieties but is predominantly divided into the white version which is not caramelised and the reddish one which is. What makes Lal Doi stand apart is the fact that the milk used in the recipe is boiled and caramelised for hours to get the signature reddish colour. It’s only after the red colour is achieved that the milk is fermented and set to make Lal Doi.
If you are wondering how this unique Lal Doi came into existence, then read on to find out everything you need to know about the dessert—including its recipe.
Video courtesy: YouTube/Kabita's Kitchen
The Origins Of Lal Doi
While the exact date or year during which Lal Doi was invented is unknown, legend has it that it was created in the 1930s in Nabadwip, an ancient heritage town in West Bengal’s Nadia district. Over the decades, one 150-year-old curd shop known as Laxmi Narayan Confectionary Store is credited with still selling the original Lal Doi variety. But when it comes to actually inventing the dish, the credit is given to a man called Kali Ghosh. Also known as Kalipad Modak, Kali Ghosh and his brother, Hari Ghosh, were popular curd makers in Nabadwip’s Phasitala area. Their speciality was boiling buffalo milk in a pot over an open fire to reduce the milk and make confections and curd with it.
It is believed that Kali Ghosh accidentally overboiled the buffalo milk one day and the brothers noticed that the result was a thick, reddish milk that resembled Kheer. They used this overcooked, excessively reduced and red-hued buffalo milk to make the traditional Mishti Doi—and what was born was a unique variety of the sweet curd, known as Lal Doi. Over time, the recipe for Lal Doi became so popular that people from Kolkata fell in love with it as much as those from Nadia. Today, Lal Doi has evolved into a slightly smokey, dense and sweet dessert that is eaten as a part of most festive feasts, whether it’s for Pohela Boishakh or a wedding or Annaprasan.
One Lal Doi, Many Names
As mentioned before, Lal Doi was invented by boiling buffalo milk for a very long duration of time. In fact, the buffalo milk is, even today, boiled over and over until it turns into a thick reduction which resembles the consistency of Kheer. This is the reason why Lal Doi is also known as Kheer Doi. This version of Mishti Doi is so rich and thick because of this reduction into Kheer, after which the curd or yoghurt culture is added to the milk to let it ferment into Lal Doi.
A true mark of perfectly set Lal Doi is the rich, thick and slightly sticky texture. To test if it is properly set, a Chaaku or knife is inserted into the Lal Doi. Not only does the knife stay upright in the Lal Doi but can also be used to cut a chunk of the curd. Ideally, when prepared right, this chunk of Lal Doi should come out cleanly, as if you were picking up a chunk of Pannacotta. This is the reason why Lal Doi is also known as Chakku Doi. So, this one unique Mishti Doi variety is known by so many names because it is complex and adds a nuanced variety to any dessert platter.
Image used for representative purpose only. Image courtesy: kitchenofdebjani.com
Lal Doi: The Recipe You Need
The preparation of Lal Doi is done in two steps. The first step is to cook the milk for hours to ensure it reduces to Kheer consistency and gets a red colour. Traditionally, the Lal Doi milk is cooked for six hours over wood, during which almost three litres of milk gets reduced to one litre. Then the milk is further cooked over coal to caramelize further until Kheer-like consistency is reached. Remember, no artificial colour is ever added to ensure the red colour of Lal Doi. Instead, it is this caramelization process that matters the most. The second step calls for introducing the culture to the reduced milk and letting it set in a warm, moist place. This can be done in earthen pots or ceramic pots if you are making it at home. Here’s an easy recipe for Lal Doi for you to try out at home.
Ingredients:
2 litres full fat buffalo milk
1 cup milk powder
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
2 tbsp plain curd (as culture)
Method:
1. Place the milk in a large pot and let it simmer and cook over a low flame until it reduces to less than half.
2. Meanwhile, in a separate pan, heat the sugar with the water to make a caramelized syrup. This syrup will ensure the red colour in the Lal Doi.
3. Add the caramelized syrup into the milk and let it cook for 20 minutes or more.
4. Add the milk powder, mix well and switch off the heat.
5. Let the milk cool down until it is lukewarm.
6. Now place the milk into an earthen or ceramic pot and introduce the culture.
7. Gently stir the culture in and immediately cover the pot. Do not overmix the culture.
8. Keep the sealed earthen pot in a warm place for around 6-8 hours.
9. Once set, transfer the Lal Doi into a refrigerator to chill until service.
