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On looking closer at South Indian cuisine and identifying its broader categories, a detailed study showcases an array of sub-cuisines stemming from the smaller communities and cultures that have influenced one another. One of the most fascinating aspects of Mangalorean cuisine is the multiple communal influences that enrich its diversity – from the vegetarian preparations of the Saraswat Brahmins to the meat-heavy dishes of the Mangalorean Catholics and the delicious seafood preparations of the coastal communities. Here’s delving into some of the city’s eight iconic delicacies that should be on everyone’s list of must-haves, while paying a visit.
Neer Dosa
Lacy dosas made with a diluted batter of soaked rice and water, the simple neer dosa is deceptive in its technique. Typically eaten as for breakfast with coconut chutney or as an accompaniment to spicy curries made with chicken and prawns, the dosa is an integral part of Tulu Nadu cuisine. Unlike the dosa – the fermented rice crepe, the batter for the neer dosa can be used almost instantaneously without fermentation.
Ghee Roast Chicken
The idea of a ‘ghee roast’ in Mangalorean cuisine involves cooking mushrooms, chicken, seafood or meat in a freshly ground spice paste and plenty of ghee for a nutty depth to the robustly spiced curry. Contrary to its name, the ghee roast chicken does not involve any actual ‘roasting’, but simply a tossing together of poultry, spices, onions pan-fried in plenty of ghee. The underlying heat of the ghee roast chicken pairs excellently with rice-based sides like the neer dosa or sanna.
Kori Rotti
An interesting delicacy that translates to ‘rice bread and chicken’ is a reference to the moorishly crunchy flatbread which is a product of Udupi-Mangalorean influences – also known as the rotti. Eaten in combination with a coconut-heavy chicken curry that is poured over broken shards of the rice-based bread, an interesting mix of textures ranging from crispy to soggy and chewy makes the kori rotti a delicacy with a unique identity of its own.
Kane Rava Fry
A Mangalorean spin-off on rava-coated seafood, the kane or ladyfish is a freshwater fish that is one of the staple varieties of seafood eaten around the coastal areas of Mangalore. Similar in appearance to the bombil or Bombay duck, the slender, silver-hued fish is coated with a simple spice paste and dusted with plenty of semolina before it is shallow-fried in hot oil. Eaten on its own as an appetiser with locally brewed toddy or paired with home-cooked meals of rice, curry and vegetables, the kane fish develops a firm texture similar to pomfret, once cooked.
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Mangalore Buns
Sweet, deep-fried banana buns made with a sticky dough, the Mangalore buns are an essential element of Udupi cuisine. This breakfast preparation, juxtaposed with a savoury coconut chutney is usually made with a dough kneaded using whole wheat or all-purpose flour. However, contemporary renditions of this traditional recipe also incorporate healthier alternatives like jowar flour, finger millets or buckwheat flour for a gluten-free alternative.
Pork Bafat
A Mangalorean Catholic classic preparation, the pork bafat is a special dish specially made during festive occasions. Also known as dukra maas, the cooking style utilises the naturally present fat in the cuts of pork, which are cooked with plenty of onions, tamarind pulp, cinnamon and a spice blend known as bafat masala. Eaten with bread, appams, sannas or boiled rice, the richness of the pork bafat is cut through with the acidity from the addition of vinegar.
Kori Ajadina
Taking a leaf from Kundapur’s dry meat preparations, loaded with plenty of grated coconut – the kori ajadina is another name for what most of us identify as chicken sukka. Translating to ‘dry chicken’ – the preparation typically uses a free-range local breed of chicken that is cooked with spices, coconut and curry leaves, until tender. Eaten as part of a meal that would normally constitute kori rotti, the ajadina borrows coastal influences in taste with a tangy dimension of flavour.
Kadubu Idli
A celebratory recipe that is usually prepared during special festive occasions like Ganesh Chaturthi, the kotte kadubu or kadubu idlis are balls of rice batter steamed in jackfruit leaves. These aromatic rice cakes are said to be one of the most nutritious offerings in traditional Mangalorean or Udupi cuisine. This vegan preparation is a common find in the Saraswat-Brahmin kitchens and take on the delicate fragrance of the jackfruit leaves after steaming.
