Share
I vividly remember when my grandmother tried to serve me some kasundi to ramp up my regular dal-bhat-bhaaja fare for lunch. It was bright yellow in colour, hence as a toddler I was instantly intrigued. It tried it and rejected it immediately for its ‘very spicy, very salty, very strong, very sour taste’. A single condiment, prompting so many adjectives, that too from a 4-year-old? It surely must be something, right? Well, it is all these things and more, and I do regret running away from it during a big chunk of my growing up years. Now, of course I cannot imagine eating my mutton chops and Mughlai porotha without the side of this pungent relish. Kasundi may have a consistency similar to that of a sauce, but did you know it is actually a pickle? In fact, it was once heralded as the Bengali ‘Queen of Pickles’ given the amount of effort and precision went into making it. But at the end of the day, it’s also worth it, because Kasundi, if made right can be stored for up to 20 years!
The legend of Kasundi
Let’s start with what is Kasundi. Kasundi is a Bengali condiment that is made with paste of mustard seeds, spices, dried mangoes, plums, and sometimes olives. It’s strong taste often makes people call it the Indian wasabi, while its dipping consistency makes people liken it to a ketchup. But the fact remains that Kasundi is truly one of a kind.
Nowadays, Kasundi is sold in bottles across most Bengali all-purpose stores, but such was not the case always. Setting pickles was always a serious affair in ancient, undivided Bengal, replete with strict procedures and complex rituals. Kasundi was also not meant to be served with every snack like it is now, it was meant to be used sparingly. To be served right next to the rice, paired with hot stir-fried greens. The condiment has also travelled to other parts of the world, with many International chefs pairing it with exquisite foods like sea bass and scotch eggs.
In Bengal, pickle making season would typically kickstart in the month of Magh, which was also the mustard harvesting time. After jujube(kul) and tamarind, it was the mustard’s turn to be pickled somehwere before monsoon. It is said that the tedious task of making Kasundi would start on the day of Akshay Tritiya. Even washing of black and yellow mustard seeds was a ceremonial occasion in Bengal. Pickling done with dry, ground mustard with or without mustard would be called Kasundi.
In Bengal, pickle making season would typically kickstart in the month of Magh, which was also the mustard harvesting time. After jujube(kul) and tamarind, it was the mustard’s turn to be pickled somehwere before monsoon. It is said that the tedious task of making Kasundi would start on the day of Akshay Tritiya. Even washing of black and yellow mustard seeds was a ceremonial occasion in Bengal. Pickling done with dry, ground mustard with or without mustard would be called Kasundi.
Traditionally, Kasundi was prepared and relished only by the Brahmin caste or the elites, since it required auspicious rituals. Later respected families and even women were involved in the process of making Kasundi, however, widows, spinsters and menstruating women were barred from the process. Another bizarre legend says that people who were involved in the making of Kasundi were also not allowed to taste any bitter or sour food. Families who were grieving for death of a closed one were not allowed to make Kasundi for a year.
With the advent of new cooking tools, making it easier for making Kasundi. The fact that it is becoming a commonplace in restaurants and eateries goes to show that the strict rituals are also gradually becoming a thing of past. So, raise your cutlet and your bottle of Kasundi, for something as amazing as this relish should be on every table of India, regardless of the social strata.
