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If there’s one thing we can be sure of in this world, it’s that food is the ultimate connector. Sit 10 strangers down for a meal, and watch them leave as friends, no matter where you’re from the act of sharing a meal creates a unique bond. Food also serves as an accessible gateway to cultures and trying new cuisines can be the launchpad for learning. Meghalaya native sisters Dakiwanri and Daphimanroi Warjri – who go by Daki and Daphi – are using their native food as a way to spread awareness about the wonders of their homeland through their pop-up Symbai.
The word Symbai means seed in the Khasi language and it's an apt choice as each of their events sows a measure of curiosity in diners as they experience Khasi food – often for the first time. Though neither of them has a professional background in food, their passion has brought them from the picturesque hills of Shillong to the bustle of Mumbai, to showcase the wealth of Meghalaya’s cuisine and they are proud to be spreading not just good food, but awareness about one of India’s forgotten states.
We caught up with Daki to learn more about how their journey began and what’s in store for Symbai.
What are some dishes from your childhood that you feel shaped your love for food?
So funnily enough, I don’t think food was a big part of my childhood. But one thing I remember well is a Mustard leaf stew with fermented soybean chutney called tungrymbai which was very strong and used to be cooked outside. Another was a simple potato curry stir fry with onion, garlic, and turmeric that my grandmother used to make. Also, I remember that in winter, we’d sit as a group and cut pomelo fruit mixed with orange and mustard oil and dried red chillies. This is one dish that we’re bringing to our next pop-up.
So since food wasn’t really your space, how did this all get started?
During the lockdown, I started talking with a friend of mine in Shillong whose family has a restaurant. We used to meet up and just cook and in 2021, she suggested the idea of doing a pop-up. I was a bit nervous since I’d never done anything like this before, but she reassured me that I’d have help and that’s when I realised I love cooking for people and sharing food. The Khasi Hills have seven regions within it and each has different styles of cooking, so we’re trying to learn as much as possible to represent each of them.
What are some of the biggest lessons you’re learning from making this a full-time endeavour?
We keep learning with every pop-up, how to manage them, how to collaborate with new people. It’s a new scenario each time. For example in the Hyderabad pop-up in collaboration with Goya Journal, there was just a small kitchenette, and no real place to cook, so we had to cook at a friend’s house and move it to the event. But we’ve been blessed with good friends and we’re learning something from each one.
What are some misconceptions about Khasi food you’d like to dispel?
One of the reasons my sister and I started doing this is because unfortunately, people tend to clump all the states together as one, whereas it's actually 7 very different states. Out of all of the states, the most well-known is probably Naga cuisine, and people have this idea that all North Eastern food is Naga food. We’ve had people come and say they were expecting it to be very spicy or with a lot of bamboo, not realising that every state in the North East has very different food.
What have been the reactions and feedback you’re getting so far?
Every event is very fulfilling with each event that we do. We had recently hosted a private dinner and there was a lady there who was a little older and told us she was very sad that she’d been in this country so long and had never even heard of this food. The only complaint we get is that there aren’t many vegetarian dishes. I think Khasi food would be very difficult to adapt to vegetarian versions since it’s naturally a very meat-heavy cuisine and vegetables usually serve as side dishes, but we have tried to offer as many choices as possible.
How do you go about shaping your menu?
One thing we’re very proud of is that a lot of the ingredients are seasonal and foraged from the wild back home. And another thing is that having a set menu was needed because getting ingredients from Shillong isn’t easy so we had to adapt to what was available in Mumbai. But at pop-ups we have more flexibility to use what is in season at the time. For example in our upcoming pop-up at Mag Street kitchen we’re including a pomelo salad since orange and pomelos are in season. And in our Hyderabad pop-up, we included a chicken claw mushroom dish for vegetarians. Another thing that’s currently in season is a herb called Jamyrdoh which is called Bishop’s Weed or Lizard’s Tail in English it has a slightly pungent, fishy smell and we usually cook the leaves with a tomato salad and make the root into a chutney.
Do you have plans to open a restaurant in the future?
Considering the feedback we’re getting, we are considering it, but for now, we want to see where the pop-ups take us. The second half of this year especially has been really taking off. The home delivery definitely helped as it encouraged more people to order and then they’d post about us and we were able to reach a lot more people. It’s safe to say it’s taking off now, and we’ll see where we go.
What has been the most fulfilling part of this journey?
I don’t know about Daphi, but for me it’s that we’re representing our culture. Food is one of the biggest things when experiencing the culture. It’s so nice to see people experience your food from a region that people don’t really know. The North-Eastern states have been sidelined for so long, it feels really good to be representing our people.
You can visit Symbai’s next pop-up at Mag St. Kitchen in Mumbai on the 21st October, 2023 : 7.30 PM to 10.30 PM or order online via their Instagram page.
