Did you know almost every year a 45-62-day fishing ban is issued on Indian coasts between May to July? While the dates may differ slightly on the east and west coasts, there’s usually an overlap of 3 weeks when fishing is completely banned on both coasts.
This seasonal fishing ban, especially deep-sea fishing ban, is quite key to sustaining marine life, which is why it’s timed during spawning season. This prevents overfishing and also goes a long way in helping small-scale fishermen. Pooja Rathod, one of the founders of the seafood initiative Know Your Fish shares, “However, rules about who is and isn’t allowed to fish during the monsoon varies across states. This “ban” was instituted after a demand from the small-scale fishing sector who had to compete with the mechanised fishing sector. So first and foremost, in its inception, the monsoon ban was not meant to protect breeding periods of fish but to guarantee livelihoods for the small-scale fishermen. Later on, the protection it provided to fish stocks was also recognised.”
Not all fish species breed during the monsoons. Rathod informs that species like black pomfret, lady fish, Indian oil sardine, fringescale sardine, Dogfish, Cobra, Jacks, Croakers and spiny cheeked grouper are avoided in the month of July since these species are likely to be breeding and carrying eggs. So, for consumers who are looking to consume ethically, it’s best to avoid these varieties to let their populations replenish and not add to the demand.
Since most Indian consumers generally prefer fresh seafood over frozen or preserved options, this scarcity of fresh fish during the breeding season may lead to some form of scarcity. Suppliers and retailers need to rely more on frozen or preserved seafood, which may not appeal to all consumers.
However, there are alternative options which exist in the market and aren't too pricey. Farmed fish or aquaculture products like prawns, Basa, and Tilapia are usually unaffected by the ban and river-caught fish like rohu, catla and hilsa make for sustainable alternatives.
What do the coastal regions eat?
A large portion of the seafood you may find in your local markets may be coming from the coast where fishing is allowed. These varieties also travel to other cities and there’s a freezing and transport network in place to supply non-coastal cities with certain fish varieties. Besides governmental units, there are private companies which deal with importing and cleaning fish from coastal regions and deliver them in temperature-controlled boxes.
“In the east, especially in West Bengal and Bihar, river water fish lime rohu, catla, mrigal etc are extremely popular since they’re available fresh. These varieties are caught in rivers, canals, and ponds,” says Rita Yadav, a seafood expert.
Hilsa, which is one of the most prized fish species across Bengal is an oceanwater fish that swims upstream to spawn. Since 80-90 per cent of hilsa is caught during the monsoon months, the demand for hilsa has come under scrutiny. The growing demand doesn’t just lead to overfishing but the practice of catching the young hilsa is leading to a depletion in the numbers. “The demand for fresh hilsa grows exponentially during this time, in eastern India and it’s important people consider the environmental ramifications of this,” adds Yadav.
In southern India, small fish varieties that ae found in rivers are particularly popular. Other varieties like sardines, mackerel, pomfret and prawns are particularly popular in the south. In Kerala, for instance, the seasonal fish harvest called Chakara is considered to be the fishermen's best season. Around monsoons in the month of June, a mud bank formation near the seashore brings a huge rush of fish to the shore.
Fishermen often harvest shoals of fish in this environment from their traditional fishing canoes and this practice is known to yield a large harvest comprising of mackerel, prawns, sardines, and others. “This year, prices were pretty inconsistent from May onwards and it was predicted that monsoon would see some steep hikes in the prices of seafood. During this period the fish shipped in from Andhra Pradesh and Odisha is a big help to us since it balances the demand,” says N. Murali, a supplier based in Kochi.
Eat local as much as possible
Consumption of fish during monsoon is not a problem as such as long as you’re following a seafood calendar and picking the right fish. Humid conditions during monsoon can reduce the shelf life of seafood or any perishable food for that matter because of rotting and mould catching. That should be taken care of before buying. Prawns, Bombay duck, anchovy, barramundi, catfish, tuna etc are good options for the month of July. Rathod’s platform Know Your Fish shares easy seafood calendars on its social media which people can use as seasonal references.
“Consumption of fish during monsoon is not a problem as such as long as you’re following a seafood calendar and picking the right fish. Humid conditions during monsoon can reduce the shelf life of seafood or any perishable food for that matter because of rotting and mould catching. That should be taken care of before buying. Prawns, Bombay duck, anchovy, barramundi, catfish, tuna etc are good options for the month of July” Rathod shares.
Local markets and neighbourhood bazaars should be your first pick during monsoon since they mostly source from small-scale fishermen and not suppliers who deal with frozen seafood. “Buying seafood from small-scale fishermen that operate during the monsoon months can be a good option as opposed to buying frozen seafood. This way you can support fishermen that use less destructive ways of catching fish,” says Rathod.