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THERE is an ancient Mexican saying that reads, “Sin maíz, no hay país (without corn, there is no country).” And true to this statement, the West, largely dominated by the American continents, has based a large portion of their diet on corn. Hominy, renowned as the "hulled corn" within the realm of traditional Native cuisine, stands as an emblematic creation of the ancient Woodlands region's indigenous people, despite its association with classic Southern American gastronomy. Derived from the Virginia-Indian term "rockahominy," possibly evoking corn or parched corn meal, the word "hominy" emerged from this vernacular term to become the widely recognised coinage we employ today. Hominy, or the hulled corn, undergoes a meticulous process involving the treatment of corn with alkali, traditionally fashioned from the ashes of wood. Lye, derived from ash water, was skillfully employed by locals to soften or incinerate the hulls enveloping corn kernels—a process we now refer to as nixtamalisation.
However, it is important to note that the convenient hominy commonly found adorning grocery store shelves—be it whole in cans, packaged as "grits," or sold in dry meal form—differs in the production method. Commercial food producers substitute the traditional ash alkali with sodium hydroxide and various other types of lye chemicals, while Mexican hominy and tortilla cornmeal rely on calcium oxide, also known as quicklime.
The Eastern Woodland people, guided by various incentives, diligently treated their corn—predominantly the esteemed eastern 8-row variety, prevalent by 1200 CE—with alkali. Foremost among these reasons was the enhancement of taste, as the process bestowed a delightful flavour upon the kernels. Furthermore, flint corns, renowned for their unyielding hardness, were rendered more palatable through this technique. The popularity of Eastern 8-Row Corn, also referred to as Northern Flint corns, among the tribes of the northeastern territories arose from their relatively rapid maturation, providing Native farmers with the ability to cultivate corn in regions characterised by shorter growing seasons, such as the northern reaches of the Great Lakes and New England (where, by 800 CE, 8-row corns flourished as far north as Ontario, Canada).
The conversion of corn into hominy additionally augmented its nutritional value for human consumption, since the natural state of corn prevents the complete absorption of all its nutrients (although, in technical terms, this process diminishes the overall nutritional value of the corn itself). Indeed, the "Flint" corns were exceedingly hard, their pericarp—an exceedingly rigid shell—posing a formidable barrier. Yet, the application of lye and the consequent softening or slipping of the hull rendered this arduous corn variety more amenable to human consumption. Moreover, the alkaline bath liberated essential amino acids such as lysine and tryptophan, along with niacin, a member of the vitamin B complex. These additional nutrients, readily digested and absorbed upon consumption, proved vital, particularly in diets centred heavily around corn consumption, as a deficiency in niacin can lead to afflictions like pellagra—an ailment engendering numerous complications, including central nervous system disorders.
The fundamental process of hominy production in the eastern realms of Native America commenced with the alkali treatment. Historical records indicate that hardwood ashes served as a key ingredient for producing the lye solution. The ashes were blended with water, or as observed in contemporary Native culinary practices, water was strained through ash to generate a lye water devoid of any sedimentary ash clumps. Subsequently, the solution was heated alongside the corn kernels.
While some preferred the mere act of heating to yield hominy, others insisted on vigorously agitating the corn and ash mixture with pestles, resulting in the cracking of whole kernels—an approach often employed by Iroquois/Haudenosaunee cooks. Over time, the ash-lye delicately disintegrated the hull, expanding the starchy core of the kernels. Furthermore, this process eliminated any germs within the seeds, ensuring that the corn remained untainted by sprouting, thus facilitating easy storage of dried hominy for extended periods. Consequently, the lye water was discarded, and the hominy underwent several rinses to eliminate any residual lye.
This rinsing process was typically conducted in specially crafted baskets, designed exclusively for hominy rinsing, achieved either by pouring water over the sieve brimming with hominy or by submerging the basket and its contents in the gentle flow of a stream or river. While a minute quantity of ashes was deemed acceptable for consumption, some even advocating its favourable inclusion as a seasoning agent, excessive amounts were known to pose harm if ingested. Once cleansed, the hominy could be immediately prepared for a meal or set aside for drying purposes.
Hominy, or hulled corn, could be boiled and savoured in its unadulterated form or enhanced with animal fat. This revered dish not only held a special place in the hearts of Woodland Indians but also proved to be a staple sustenance for countless explorers. While traversing the rugged terrain, these intrepid traders would boil a quart or so of prepared hominy for a couple of hours, enlivening it with animal fat (and occasionally a sprinkle of salt, if available). Native tribes also harmoniously combined hominy with other elements such as beans and succulent meat pieces. Cherokee tradition even advocates for cooking hominy in a kanuchi—an age-old broth crafted from traditional hickory nuts. The softened whole hominy would sometimes be mashed and transformed into a delectable hominy pudding, enveloped in cornhusk packets, or moulded into patties that were shallow-fried in luscious grease (certain Native bean bread recipes employed hominy paste as the foundation of their cornmeal composition).
Selected Southeastern Native delicacies, including sofkee, relied on ash-treated corn as the principal ingredient. Dried hominy, once rehydrated, could be consumed in its entirety—according to one Delaware/Lenape source, discarding the water used in the preparation of dried hominy on a few occasions would enhance its taste. Alternatively, dried hominy could be ground into meal, yielding a Native pudding-like creation now recognised as grits (worth noting is the distinction between grits and polenta—not merely coarse-ground cornmeal but rather "treated" cornmeal, i.e., meal derived from hominy, constituting the fundamental divergence in taste and texture between the two; the former harnesses hominy meal, while the latter employs basic ground cornmeal). Exquisite hominy meal also found application in certain cornbread recipes, serving as a worthy substitute for dry cornmeal. Though prevalent in the eastern territories, this ingredient's utilisation extends to Mexican-Indian tortillas, commonly associated with alkali-treated cornmeal. Hominy, or meal derived from hulled corn, bestowed cornmeal-based dishes with a delectably sticky consistency, lending itself perfectly to the formation of delectable cakes while imparting a delightful flavour.
The journey of hominy, from its genesis in the ancient hands of native Americans, to its steadfast presence in contemporary culinary realms, demands our attention. In its essence, hominy is more than a gastronomic delight; it represents the eternal flame of ancestral wisdom, a beacon that guides culinary traditions, uniting communities, and instilling within people a profound sense of cultural identity.
