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Sandesh is quite dear in Bengal's rich gastronomic legacy. This favourite sweet has historical value and is a flavour sensation treat. Sandesh, also referred to as the "Emblem of Bengaliness" by food historian Colleen Taylor Sen, has gained its reputation throughout ages of custom. Its long and varied past closely reflects Bengal's cultural identity and marks a legacy spanning many centuries. The narrative of sandesh is about the development of Bengali cuisine over several centuries, as much as about its taste.
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The Portuguese, who first arrived in Bengal in the 17th century, significantly impacted the local food culture. Sandesh owes its unique identity to this colonial influence. Before their arrival, curdled milk was considered inauspicious. However, the Portuguese love for cheese changed the culinary landscape, leading Bengali confectioners to create sandesh using chenna—a by-product of curdled milk.
Sandesh's unique shape came from this mix of native and foreign methods. It evolved over the years into something rather unique and became a main sweet in Bengal.
History And Origin Of Sandesh
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The Portuguese Influence On Sandesh
The origin of sandesh is closely tied to Portuguese settlers who arrived in Bengal in the 17th century. Living near the Hooghly River, these colonists enjoyed their cheese and brought it to the nearby food scene. Traditionally, using curdled milk was considered bad luck in India.
However, with the influence of the Portuguese, local confectioners in Bengal began experimenting with chenna, a curdled milk extract. One of the first Indian sweets created from chenna, sandesh sprang from this invention. This foreign influence signalled a change in Bengal's sweet production, which sparked a revolution in Bengali confectionery.
Evolution During The Bengali Renaissance
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As Bengal entered its renaissance in the mid-19th century, sandesh became increasingly popular. The wealthy urban middle class in Kolkata embraced this sweet with great enthusiasm. Famous sweet shops like Bhim Nag, K.C. Das, and Dwarik Ghosh began crafting different variations of sandesh, turning it into a symbol of wealth and status.
During this period, the sweet shops of Kolkata became institutions. They competed fiercely to create the most extravagant and unique sandesh varieties, leading to the 'golden age' of Bengali sweets.
Creative Variants And Extravagance
By the height of its popularity, sandesh had become more than just a simple sweet. It transformed into an art form, with over 100 varieties being sold in sweet shops across Bengal. These shops began making sandesh in creative shapes and forms, such as chocolates, sandwiches, cakes, and even biscuits.
Each variation came with a unique name, adding a touch of flair to the experience of buying and eating sandesh. Names like Desh Gorob (Glory of the Nation), Monohara (Captivator of the Heart), and Abar Khabo (I'll Have Another) reflect the creativity and pride associated with this sweet during that era.
Naming Traditions
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The names given to various sandesh varieties reflected not just creativity but also societal trends and political references. In fact, sandesh varieties were often named after prominent personalities and events. For instance, one variety was named after Lord Ripon, the Viceroy of India from 1880 to 1884.
Another notable variety, Bulganiner Bishmoy (Bulganin's Wonder), was crafted in honour of the visiting Soviet premier in the 1960s. These names gave sandesh a cultural depth that transcended its culinary roots, making it a symbol of the times.
The Modern Era Of Sandesh
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Today, sandesh continues to be a significant part of Bengali celebrations, festivals, and even everyday life. Although the number of variations has decreased, the love for sandesh remains strong in Bengal. Modern sweet shops have adapted sandesh to cater to contemporary tastes by incorporating ingredients like chocolate and exotic fruits.
Yet, at its core, sandesh still maintains its traditional values. It is still made from fresh chenna and crafted with the same care and attention that has defined it for centuries.
The journey of sandesh, from its humble beginnings to becoming a cultural icon of Bengal, reflects the resilience and adaptability of Bengali cuisine. Influenced by the Portuguese and later elevated during the Bengali Renaissance, sandesh has remained a beloved sweet for generations. Its evolving variants and unique names tell the story of a sweet that is much more than just a dessert—it's a symbol of history, innovation, and cultural pride.
