History Of Pantheras: Kolkata’s Beloved Colonial Snack
Image Credit: All Images Courtesy: Rajan Bhattacharya

Pantheras, a name steeped in Kolkata's rich culinary history, has been a cherished afternoon snack since the colonial era. This unique blend of European and Bengali flavours has long been enjoyed with evening tea by the city elite. Anglo-Indian households ruled Bengal, and their kitchens were creative and innovative. The skilled Burmese cooks Mog Khansamas shaped Kolkata's food culture. Their expertise in blending British methods with local spices created Pantheras, a dish that showcases Kolkata's diverse food scene.

Video Credit: YouTube | The Cuisine News

During the colonial period, Pantheras became a favoured snack for British sahibs and Bengali aristocrats. Its ideal mix of European crepe and Bengali spiced mutton set it apart. A much-loved snack, the minced meat filling, battered and fried to perfection, had a wonderful crunch. The popularity of the dish persists since its rich tastes and historical relevance still appeal to foodies from Kolkata.

History And Origin Of Pantheras

The Contribution Of Mog Khansamas

Pantheras owes its origin to the Mog Khansamas of Chittagong, who played a pivotal role in introducing European cooking techniques to Bengal. These skilled Burmese cooks, employed in Anglo-Indian households, were initially tasked with creating European-style soups, roasts, and pies. Their knowledge, though, went beyond simple reproduction. Local tastes they added to these dishes produced creative fusion cuisine. Pantheras, with its European-style crepe and Bengali spiced meat filling, is a prime example of this culinary ingenuity.

The Evolution Of 'Steamer Cuisine'

The dish’s evolution is closely tied to the expansion of railways and steamers during the British colonial period. Mogs, often employed on these steamers, brought European flavours into Kolkata’s colonial clubs. Their knowledge of European dishes, coupled with their openness to preparing pork and other red meat, made them the ideal chefs for British officers and affluent Bengali families. Pantheras, often served with tea on these steamers, slowly made their way into the city's culinary traditions.

The Role Of Kolkata’s Elite In Popularising Pantheras

The Bengal aristocracy, particularly families like the Debs of Shobhabazar, played a significant role in popularising Pantheras. Their frequent interactions with British officials created the perfect setting for the Mog Khansamas to showcase their culinary expertise. Pantheras, alongside other European-inspired dishes like fowl cutlets and devilled eggs, became a staple at these gatherings. Over time, it became a much-loved snack across the city, particularly in the colonial clubs and elite households.

The Theta-Feta Club And the Legacy Of Pantheras

The story of Pantheras continued after India’s independence, thanks to clubs like the Theta-Feta Club in North Kolkata. In 1935, the club appointed Nakul Chandra, a retired cook from the Great Eastern Hotel, to serve its members. His Pantheras became an instant hit. After the decline of the club culture, Nakul started his own food joint, which, under the care of his son Bidhubhushan and his partner Phatik Dey, remains one of the last places in Kolkata where this heritage dish is made. Their humble food joint, Barua and Dey Fast Food Centre, continues to serve Pantheras, keeping its legacy alive for future generations.

The shop where Pantheras is served |  Barua and Dey Fast Food Centre 

The Recipe And Its Unique Flavour

Pantheras is a testament to the ingenuity of the Mog Khansamas, combining European and Bengali culinary elements. The dish starts with a soft crepe made from flour, filled with spicy minced mutton, and then dipped in a batter before being fried. Its golden crust, achieved by rolling the crepe in breadcrumbs and frying it, offers a delightful contrast to the spicy, flavourful meat inside. Traditionally, Pantheras is served with kasundi, a mustard-based condiment, which adds a tangy sharpness to the rich flavours of the fried crepe.

Cultural Significance And Modern-Day Appeal

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Today, Pantheras remains a reminder of Kolkata’s colonial past and the culinary creativity that came with it. The dish, though not as widely known as other Bengali snacks, holds a special place in the city’s food history. The continued success of places like Barua and Dey Fast Food Centre shows that despite the passage of time, Pantheras has retained its charm and continues to appeal to modern taste buds. Its blend of textures, flavours, and cultural significance makes it a dish worth preserving.

Pantheras, with its unique history and rich legacy, remains an iconic part of Kolkata’s culinary heritage. Its fusion of European and Bengali elements reflects the city’s colonial past while showcasing the creativity of the Mog Khansamas. Despite the changing times, this dish continues to be enjoyed by those who appreciate the deep flavours and history it represents.