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DID YOU KNOW that the legendary kebabs at Tunday’s in Lucknow are made from a masala that comprises anywhere between 140-160 ingredients, including herbs, roots of plants, and flowers? Or that Karim’s in Delhi has an age-old practice that restricts knowledge of its secret spice mix to the male members of the family, the rationale being that the female descendants, once married, could reveal the highly guarded recipe to their in-laws.
Uncovering such fascinating nuggets from some of India’s storied culinary establishments is a new book — India’s Most Legendary Restaurants, edited by journalist Ruth Dsouza Prabhu. The book focuses on seven time-honoured Indian restaurants; each of these iconic haunts has not only stood the test of time but has also become an integral part of the city it inhabits.
The Taste (Atlas) Test
The inception of this book was serendipitous: When TasteAtlas announced its list of the world’s most legendary restaurants in 2023, seven signposts of Indian food culture and cuisine found their own spots. Among them was Kozhikode’s Paragon. Thus, Ruth found “an ideal hook to work on the backstory of the restaurant” which was opening its first Indian outpost outside the state of Kerala, in Bengaluru. The article appeared in Mint Lounge.
Soon, she was approached by publishing house Aleph to work on a book that narrated the stories of the seven restaurants on the TasteAtlas list. The idea was to get writers who had a personal connection to the city and the restaurants to tell these stories through their unique perspective.
So Om Routray chronicled Amrik Sukhdev in Murthal and Karim’s in Delhi; Anubhuti Krishna documented the history of Tunday Kababi in Lucknow; Aatish Nath delved into the origins of Ram Ashraya in Mumbai; and Priyadarshini Chatterjee demystified Peter Cat in Kolkata. Ruth herself wrote the essays on Bengaluru’s MTR and Kozhikode’s Paragon.
The Secret Ingredient
Each essay in the book uncovers stories that even regular patrons might not know. Ruth notes, “These restaurants may be ones people have been visiting for generations, but there is so much that is not known about them!”
The humility and dedication of the current generation of owners shine through as they strive to uphold the legacy they inherited. Among the recurring themes is the unwavering commitment to consistency. “These restaurants are so loved because people are assured of getting their favourite, soul-satisfying meal each and every time,” Ruth observes. “That level of dependability is hard to come by these days. Good service and good food in a time-tested format with changes to meet customer demands is how these establishments operate.”
Pair this with recipes perfected over time and handed down through generations, and what you have is an enduring formula for success.
Food For Thought
The stories of these restaurants offer valuable lessons for hoteliers. Ruth explains, “These legendary restaurants placed their complete focus on the people and their tastes. Cities have grown around them, and these establishments have evolved to keep pace without changing their core — the food.” This reverence for their culinary roots, coupled with adaptability, offers a blueprint for contemporary restaurateurs striving to balance tradition with modernity.
Ruth’s interactions with the owners and writers unearthed several memorable anecdotes. For instance, during the creation of the book, two writers coincidentally lost a parent, adding a layer of poignancy to the project. Sumesh, the owner of Paragon, had a mutual friend read Ruth’s essay to him over the phone while he was abroad, showcasing the personal connections and dedication involved in fact-checking and ensuring authenticity.
Om Routray, who wrote about Amrik Sukhdev and Karim’s, expected the latter to have the more intriguing story. However, he discovered that Amrik Sukhdev’s history, filled with family drama, a devastating fire, and a classic rags-to-riches arc, was equally (if not more) compelling.
From Plate To Page
The journey of bringing these stories to life was not without its challenges. Ensuring that each essay retained the unique voice of its writer while maintaining a cohesive flow was a delicate balancing act. Another challenge was to extract information from each of the current generations of owners of these restaurants.
Ruth acknowledges, “While some were very forthcoming with their stories, a few others had to be coaxed much more than usual, and in a few places, you will find that the story has been pieced together along with inputs from cuisine experts, historians, and others outside the restaurant’s immediate circle to give it that well-rounded perspective.”
As the culinary scene in India undergoes a radical change with online deliveries and international cuisines gaining traction, these stories hold significant value. “They demonstrate resilience in the face of innumerable hardships and changing situations,” Ruth opines. “They underscore how innovation and timely upgrading without compromising on quality for the sake of profits are essential ethical practices.” The Swiggy-Zomato generation definitely has its unique set of challenges, and these stories can serve as a reminder that sometimes, the most basic of solutions can help turn the tide.
India’s Most Legendary Restaurants is more than just a compilation of restaurant histories; it is a celebration of India’s culinary soul. It invites readers to not only savour the flavours of iconic dishes at these restaurants but also to appreciate the rich tapestry of heritage that make these establishments legendary.
