Fishes, Fishermen, And India’s Coastal Cuisines

When I reached Diu on my journey through coastal Saurashtra, I had an intriguing interaction with a few fishermen who were ready to leave on a fortnight-long voyage to the high seas. This fishing sojourn would be challenging; however, it’s nothing they were not prepared for. After having a detailed understanding of how fishing in the sea goes about, the variety of different catches and their storage, and amusing myself using a satellite phone and the digital GPS-enabled sea map, I readily agreed to their offer of eating a meal with them. It was their last meal ashore before their departure, and they planned to cook some fish and prawns. One of the crew members was a seasoned cook, and by noon he had prepared a sumptuous meal. The meal's highlight was eating the freshest seafood in a sweet, sour, and spicy flavour and the equally flavourful interaction about fishing. The pleasant breeze from the Arabian sea made it merrier.

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                             Image: Tawa Fried Pomfret

Most food enthusiasts, especially those from the coastal city of Mumbai, would be well aware of the Kolis (Fishermen) from the different Koliwadas (A colony of fishermen). An annual Koli Seafood Festival at Versova Koliwada showcases the variety of seafood and flavours of the Koli community’s cuisine. The tawa fried Pomfret, Buttery Bombay Duck (Bombil Fish), Crabs, Prawns, Lobster, Kalamari, and a wide variety of fish, adorn the festival space packed with seafood lovers. It’s a beautiful three-day event highlighting the Coastal cuisines prevalent in the fishermen’s community. With the spicy Malvani fish curries, the crispy rava fried prawns, Jhinga Biryani, Sol Kadhi, curried crabs etc., the Koli food festival is an excellent time of the year to indulge in their delicious traditional cuisine.

Travelling southward to the coastal states of Goa, Karnataka, and Kerala, one can find seafood restaurants in plenty. The variety of fishes, such as Bangdas, Anjals, Karimeens, Pomfrets, and their quality are at their peak in this stretch of the Western Indian Coast. Goa’s cuisine is well-defined, known for its influences from the neighbouring regions of Maharashtra and Karnataka, as well as the colonial influence of the Portuguese. The authentic and local Goan fish Curry is a must-have on your trip to Goa; however, do not forget to try the delicious Bhangda Fry, Shark Ambot Tik, Prawns Rechaedo, Prawns Balchao, and other famed dishes like a Cafreal, Xacuti, Sorpotel etc. In Dakshin Kannada, the lunch home tables are always brimming with a wide variety of Seafood prepared in various regional cooking styles. Gassi, Ghee Roast, Pulimunchi, Panna Upkaari, Uppu Munchi and Hinga Udda are some of the delicious coastal preparations from Karnataka that one can enjoy at the seaside lunch homes. Besides the famous seafood places like Giri Manjas, Machali, Narayana, Thimappa etc., visiting the small food joints run by the fishermen along Dakshin Kannada’s coastal highway provides an authentic experience of the local cuisine.

                              Image: Karimeen Polichattu

In Kerala, with the diverse range of ingredients available, the fishermen’s community supports the flavourful cuisine of Kerala to thrive and prosper. Pearlspot, or the Karimeen, is a local favourite, and to eat in the regional styles of Polichattu, Mulakitthathu, or a Meen Moilee. Coconut and premium quality locally grown spices give a unique taste profile to the coastal cuisine. Crisp and spicy fried Ayila, Tuna, or Matthi, a glass of fresh toddy, the raw mango fish curry, with Kerala’s red rice, a bit of Thoran, and Avial, makes for a perfect soporific meal by the sea or on the houseboat cruising the backwaters of Kerala. Fishermen of the western coast play a significant role in defining the coastal cuisine of their region and feeding a vast portion of the country with their daily catch.

The southern states of Tamilnadu and Andhra Pradesh make the most of the eastern Indian coast. Fishermen communities of Tamilnadu have a long history associated with them, the Paravars, the Mukkuvars and the Pattanavars being some of the prominent fishermen communities of Tamilnadu. The coastal region surrounding the Kanyakumari, Tuticorin, Rameshwaram and Pamban regions, Nagapattinam and Chennai are the major fishing hubs of Tamilnadu. Meen Kuzhambu, a spicy fish curry from Tamilnadu, make great use of the fresh fish from the Bay of Bengal and the traditional and robust use of spices Tamilnadu is known for. Chepala Pulusu (Fish Curry), Chepala Vepudu (Fish Fry), Royalla Iguru (Prawn Curry), and Royala Vepudu (Prawn Fry) are some of the common Andhra-style preparations from the coastal regions; usage of spicy and red chilli is prominent in Andhra Pradesh, and being the rice bowl of India, curry and rice, with pickles, lentil (Pappu) and Pachadi for a meal is commonplace.

The states of Odisha and Bengal are well known for their seafood. The fishermen here are engaged in coastal and inland fishing. Mahanadi river and lake Chilika are rich sources for fisheries in Odisha, other than the Bay of Bengal. Similarly, in Bengal, Fishing is carried out in rivers and the sea, with many popular fishing hubs like Digha, Diamond harbour, Haldia, and many famous fishing villages like Namkhana, Kakdwip, Mandarmani etc. The culinary brilliance of the eastern states, Bengal, Odisha and Assam, is well-known. The delicious preparations using fish, prawns, and a variety of seafood being used in their cuisine are an unmissable highlight. Culinary preparations like Macher Jhol, Chingri Malai, Shorsho Illish, Chital Macher Muitha, Macha Besara, Chingudi Jhola, and Maser Tenga etc. are some of the finest seafood preparations from the eastern state. The fishermen community who strives hard to catch the bounty from the sea has played a significant role in the cuisine and culture of these states.

                              Image: Macher Jhol

Fishermen communities thrive mainly in the coastal regions, and their livelihood depends on their daily catch. Seafood caught during the fishing expeditions is sold to more extensive fisheries and corporations. In contrast, the daily catch by an individual or small fishermen team is sold directly to the local markets or auctioned off at the coast. Inland fishing happens in the regions of rivers, lakes, and dams across the country. My fond culinary memory is of enjoying the Himalayan trout freshly caught by the anglers in Himachal Pradesh and prepared in different styles of preparations in the villages along the Beas River. Trout, Mahseer, Carp, Rohu, Tilapia, Catfish, Murrel, Katla etc., are some of the famous river fishes found in India and are essential to the regional cuisines of India.

With India’s long coastline, and many traditional communities of fishermen thriving across the country, their impact on the cuisines and culture of various regions of India is indispensable. The charm and pleasure of the seaside dining, the aroma and taste of fresh seafood, and the indigenous recipes and culinary gems on the Indian coast make it an endearing experience to explore India’s coastal states and dive into the flavours and culinary practices of the fishermen communities of India. Often during the culinary explorations, I get to interact with the fishermen. Sometimes while they are going on a fishing expedition or returning with their morning catch, at the fish markets or their fisherman’s shacks, one can try an authentic meal with fresh seafood. Sometimes I meet them during their resting time as they chill on the shores or when they all sew their nets together. Occasionally, we catch them drying fish on the beach, and sometimes we can even see them singing to the breeze. Knowing our fishermen gives us insight into their lives and helps us know the food we eat and our delicious coastal Indian cuisines.

Sidharth Bhan Gupta, Founder of 361 Degrees Hospitality, is a Hospitality / Food and Beverage / Restaurant Consultant, Travelling across India on a Cultural and Culinary Exploration.