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The temple city of Madurai might at first seem like any other town in Tamil Nadu where the expected South Indian fare is available commonly. However, on a closer look into the canvas of what gives the place its unique identity, Madurai has been a significant contributor to some of Tamil Nadu’s most iconic sub-cuisines. For a place whose history dates back 2,300 years as the capital of the Tamilian Pandya dynasty, Madurai boasts of its fair share of dishes that one can categorise as quintessentially Tamizh.
A melting pot of cultural influences that are a result of trading with multiple communities like the Chettinad, Saurashtra Gujratis and Sri Lankan businessmen, Madurai’s food is a mirror into the robust flavours and the city’s bustling trade history. Besides the Kongunadu fare that has now established itself in the lead for being fare that crowds throng the land-locked belt of Coimbatore, Salem, Erode, Dindigul, Tirupur and now Madurai for, here are eight hard-to-miss foods that are characteristically unique to the city.
Bun Parotta
Unlike the Malabar parotta which is a flaky, flattened disc layered with fat between folds of dough, the bun parotta derives its name more from the shape than composition. A slightly sweet, flaky-crisp parotta made with a mixture of flour, eggs, ripe bananas and butter, the dough is rolled out into a translucent sheet before it is repeatedly folded to form air pockets. When cooked on a hot griddle, the parotta develops a dual texture which oscillates between fluffy soft in the centre to almost a biscuit-like crisp on the outside.
Keerai Vadai
Image Credits: Parveen's Kitchen
Picture a thin, deep-fried fritter similar in appearance to the puri; the keerai vadai is a popular street food offering in Madurai made with a dough that contains chopped or pureed mullu murungai – a medicinal plant that resembles a betel leaf. Eaten with a sprinkling of podi as a light snack, the keerai vadai can most often be found sold at small carts which also sell a variety of deep-fried treats like urad dal vadas and chickpea sundal.
Kari Dosai
Kari dosai or mutton keema dosa is a product of the cow-herding community called Konar that inhabited the city. A common feature in homes of the people belonging to the community, the kari dosai is an interesting construction of three layers – namely, dosa batter, a whisked egg topped off with a spicy mutton mince or curry. The dosa batter develops a crisp base when cooked whereas the egg omelette prevents the curry from soaking into the dosa and turning it soggy. Usually eaten with chutney or more mutton curry, the kari dosai is also made with chicken curry or mince.
Jigarthanda
Giving dessert beverages around India some stiff competition is Madurai’s jigarthanda – also known as jil jil jigarthanda. The literal translation of the name means ‘cooling to the heart’ and the jigarthanda surely delivers what it promises! The creamy-thick texture of the drink is courtesy of ingredients like homemade ice cream, almond gum (badam pisin) and flavoured with nannari – a syrup made with the root of the sarsaparilla plant. While the drink is rich and heavy enough to be consumed on its own, a few places in Madurai also top it off with a healthy dollop of slow-cooked basundi.
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Kola Urundai
Although largely identified as a Chettinad recipe in most parts of Tamil Nadu, the kola urundai or minced mutton meatballs are also native to Madurai in many ways as a result of the traders who often visited the city. Finely ground mutton keema is combined with a variety of spices and shallots, before being shaped into bite-sized balls which are deep-fried until crispy and juicy. Often enjoyed as a snack, what makes this meatball different from a kofta is the usage of roasted gram flour which acts as a binder as well as adds flavour to the meatballs.
Kothu Parotta
The word kothu, meaning poke in Tamil, refers to the act of repeatedly breaking down a mixture of leftover parotta, eggs, onions, tomatoes and spices using two spatulas, in the context of the kothu parotta. A direct influence from Sri Lanka’s godamba roti – which is said to have been the original base of the dish, paper thin parottas are shredded and tossed on a griddle with some salna – or leftover gravy from meat or vegetable dishes. Eaten as a snack or quick meal, this dish is one of the most widely available foods at street carts around Madurai.
Kalkandu Saadam
Image Credits: Yummy Tummy Aarthi
Taking a leaf out of Gujrat’s sweet rice dish known as biraj – the kalkandu saadam contains exactly what it promises; rice, rock candy, moong dal, milk and dry fruits. A sweet rice preparation with a creamy texture, this rice preparation has a unique aroma and flavour, due to the usage of rock candy instead of traditional sweeteners like jaggery or sugar. Meant to be cooling for the body, this delicacy is prepared during special occasions and is often found distributed as spiritual remnants after being offered to the deities in temples.
Elumbu Roast
Image Credits: Maalaimalar
In the cuisine’s dedication to the concept of nose-to-tail cooking and utilising all parts of the goat, the elumbu roast or bone roast is an excellent example. Made by simmering mutton bones in a fiery gravy flavoured with gundu milagai (round chillies), fennel seeds and black pepper, the elumbu roast is meant to be paired with rice or parottas for a delectable meal experience. Similar in concept to the nalli nihari but with stand-out flavours from the coconut milk and curry leaves, the varuval or roast is commonly eaten with idlis for breakfast as well.
