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While travelling through the region of Ladakh, most people tourists tend to gravitate towards local cuisines that reflect the culture and terrain of the dry, mountainous area. But while you might be well aware of which Kashmiri or Ladakhi foods to relish while there, your trip to Ladakh is bound to be incomplete without a taste of Balti cuisine. Centred around Turtuk, the northern village of Ladakh nestled between the Himalayas and the Karakoram, Balti cuisine is the food consumed by the predominantly Baltistani population of the region.
The history of Baltistani settlers in India’s Ladakh region is quite interesting. It is believed that centuries ago, both Baltistan and Ladakh were Buddhist kingdoms which slowly experienced transformation into Islamic traditions as well. Balti nobles in the 16th century has connections with the Namgyal rulers of Ladakh, and while this dynasty had huge conflicts with the Mughals, there was also a clear exchange of culinary ideas. This is the reason why Balti cuisine today has an interesting combination of Tibetan, Indian and Central Asian cuisines.
Most people of Baltistan origins today like in Pakistan and Pakistan-occupied Kashmir, which is the main reason why small villages like Turtuk in Ladakh remain the only places in India where you can taste the authentic flavours of Balti cuisine today. As a product of the harsh terrain of Ladakh, Balti cuisine is largely based around locally available ingredients, including apricots, buckwheat (locally known as Tarme), meat and dairy products sourced majorly from goats and yak. Most Balti cuisine dishes might seem rather rich and buttery to you, but the fact is that these dishes are suited to cold winters and high-altitude climates.
Video Credit: Youtube/Stanzin Phuntsog
Over time, the people of Turtuk have managed to preserve their Gilgit-Baltistan origins and culture, largely through their simple lifestyle and Balti cuisine. Popular among both locals and tourists, Balti cuisine today is mostly available in Ladakhi restaurants and food stalls. But if you are travelling to Ladakh and Turtuk in particular, then here are a few Balti cuisine specialties you must get a taste of at least once.
Skardu Bread
Balti cuisine is dominated by a number of breads or Khoors, and Skardu Bread holds a position of prominence here, especially as a breakfast dish. Also known as Phitti in the local language, Skardu Bread is basically an unleavened flatbread made with locally grown wheat flour, salt and water. Cooked on an iron griddle, Skardu Bread is usually relished with plenty of Yak Cheese on top along with Noon Chai.
Noon Chai
Also known as Pink Tea, Noon Chai is a popular beverage in Kashmir and Ladakh, so it is also very popular in Balti cuisine. Made with green tea leaves, baking soda and milk cooked together, Noon Chai has a rich, creamy texture and a signature pink colour. The beverage is often spiced with cardamoms and cinnamon and is a symbol of Balti culture and hospitality.
Yak Cheese
Also known as Chhurpi, Yak Cheese is a prized component of Balti cuisine. Made from yak milk, Yak Cheese is known to be exceptionally dense, rich and creamy, making it perfect for the dry and rough terrain of Ladakh. Often infused with smoke from a wood fire, Yak Cheese is served as a topping for all the Khoors or breads that are popular in Balti cuisine.
Tarme Kisir
Also known as Zabkhoor, this Balti cuisine bread is made with buckwheat flour, barley flour and has a sweet aftertaste. Another unleavened flatbread popular in the region, Tarme Kisir is relished as a breakfast essential and is known to provide sustained energy throughout the day. Pair this one with Ladakhi butter or Yak Cheese, or enjoy it with Tsamik.
Tsamik
A sour, yoghurt-based dip from Balti cuisine, Tsamik is also known as Kisir Tsamik. This savoury dip is creamy in texture, thanks to the unique flavour and texture of yak milk which the yoghurt is made from. Tsamik is often flavoured with herbs like coriander leaves and green chillies for a bit of kick. This Balti cuisine dip can be paired with a variety of Khoors or breads.
Bringa
A soft and light bread or Khoor from Balti cuisine, Bringa is a basically a type of buckwheat flatbread made with the simple combination of buckwheat flour, water, salt and is slightly fermented for its soft texture. What makes Bringa a standout among so many breads in Balti cuisine is the fact that it is always served with yak butter which is served in a wavy texture on top of the bread. The simplicity and complexity if this bread is not to be missed.
Phading
Given that Turtuk is especially known for its widespread and high yields of apricots, it is quite natural that at least one famous dish from Balti cuisine will boast of the flavours of this fruit. Phading, a sweet dish made with roasted apricots, is definitely one of those and a must-have. The dish also has apples, mulberries, mint and honey, making it a smokey yet balanced dessert perfectly suited to the region and its flavours.
