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Known for its spice-heavy dishes, the cuisine in the Karaikudi region of Tamil Nadu relies heavily on a blend of spices – also known as Chettinadu masala, which is the heart of many dishes. The Chettinadu samayal or achi samayal – which is a reference to the old-school firewood cooking which was mostly undertaken by women, is believed to elevate the flavours and aromas of the dishes. The predominantly meat-based cuisine typically sees liberal usage of chicken, seafood, mutton as well as a marked absence of pork or beef in age-old recipes. Despite the emphasis on meat, Karaikudi cuisine also offers an array of delicious vegetarian dishes made with okra, eggplant and seasonal ingredients. Additionally, the wide usage of coconut in most dishes also adds a different kind of richness to the food, making it a luxurious affair that was influenced by the Chettiar or merchant community.
Eeral Masala
Image Credits: My Heart Beets
A spicy preparation of chicken or goat liver, eeral masala utilises the innards which are usually marinated with a mix of spices such as coriander, black pepper, fennel seeds, red chilies and turmeric. The marinated liver pieces are them simmered in a gravy made with tomatoes, ground coconut and onions, with a generous dusting of the spicy Chettinadu masala – as a way of masking the gamey taste of the liver with robust spices. Often served as a side dish with parottas, the eeral masala is eaten as an early evening meal or for lunch, along with other meaty accompaniments.
Athirasam
A sweet delicacy reserved especially for festivals and special occasions like Diwali or weddings, the athirasam is a sweet, deep-fried snack made from a batter of rice flour, jaggery and a touch of powdered cardamom for flavour. The fermented batter is allowed develop a slight sourness, which develops a chewy texture with a crispy exterior, once cooked. Some recipes also soak the circular discs in a syrup of jaggery or sugar, while some recipes add the sweetner to the batter, before cooking.
Aadikoozh
Image Credits: Annams Recipes
This traditional porridge-like dish from the Chettinadu region is a nutritious preparation made with broken rice, or other grains like millet or sorghum. Particularly consumed during the summer months for its cooling and refreshing properties, soaked broken rice is ground to a coarse paste and cooked with buttermilk, until thick; before it is tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves. The simple and wholesome dish is also accompanied by side dishes such as spicy chutneys or pickles, for a light supper during the harsh summer months.
Vendakkai Mandi
This tangy, tamarind-based okra curry is special and unique for its ‘zero waste’ reasons. What was initially conceptualised as a way to use up the discarded water, after rice was cooked, the mandi is a delicious Chettinadu-style vegetarian preparation of okra and baby shallots, that simmer in a spicy tamarind paste thickened with this starchy liquid. Ideally consumed at room temperature for the flavours to steep and turn complex, the vendakkai mandi is served with rice as an accompaniment similar to kuzhambu.
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Kozhi Varuval
What roughly translates to chicken fry in English, the Chettinadu-style kozhi varuval is a spicy chicken delicacy of tender chicken pieces marinated in a mixture of spices that make up the blend for the masala. Once marinated, the chicken pieces are shallow or deep-fried until golden brown and crispy on the outside while remaining juicy and tender inside. Eaten as a small plate in local watering holes prior to a meal, the varuval treads the fine balance of being a light snack or a phenomenal accompaniment to rasam and rice.
Paal Paniyaram
A dessert delicacy made with paniyarams – small, round, fluffy dumplings made with leftover fermented dosa batter, soaked in sweetened, flavoured milk. Typically, the milk is scented with cardamom and saffron, while being garnished with nuts like cashews and pistachios. The result of soaking these porus paniyarams in the milk, gives them a soft, squishy texture – similar to that of ras malai. Best enjoyed chilled, during festivals or special occasions, the richness of the sweetened milk against the slightly sour paniyarams provides a contrast in textures.
Ennai Kathrikai
A dry eggplant preparation of whole brinjals stuffed with coarsely ground lentils and spices, the ennai kathrikai or oily eggplants is cooked with no added liquid, allowing the vegetable’s natural moisture to soften the brinjals. The heavily seasoned preparation is usually eaten mashed into hot rice, drizzled with ghee or paired with sambar or spicy kuzhambu, as an accompaniment. It’s fleshy texture, complemented with the coarse spice and lentil powder, gives it a unique mushy-crunchy texture that makes it special.
