Does Mumbai’s Famous Berry Pulao Have Iranian Roots? 

On my trip to Mumbai that I took in the December of 2019, just before the pandemic disrupted our lives, I was strolling on the streets of Colaba and Bandra with my friends for street shopping. After a long walk in the tiny lanes of the bazaar we were starving. We headed to the first café we saw round the corner and grabbed ourselves a nice and cozy table. The server brought to us the menu cards and we scanned the options (thankfully, with our eyes and not phones like now) quickly. At once, I was quite intrigued by the name, Berry Pulao, mentioned under the rice dishes. Since we were looking for something filling and this was an interesting choice, we ordered it. 

My friends were a little apprehensive since the description mentioned that it would have dry fruits and nuts in the pulao but I was too excited to worry about all this. After a 20-minute wait, the server brought us an oval-shaped shining brass container, white rice peeking from the top of it. I mixed the whole thing really well and served everyone. One bite in and the “Oh my my” came very naturally to us because it was berry (very) tasty. 

After relishing the dish, I did a little bit of research and found that this dish is actually quite a rage in most Irani café menus. In fact, the birth of this iconic pulao also took place in an Irani café called Britannia & Co., a kitchen located in Ballard Estate. The humble beginnings of one of the last few Irani cafes left in Mumbai, began in 1923 when Continental and British tastes for fish and chips were given utmost priority. It was only after Independence that Mughlai and Mangalorean flavours entered the kitchen of this legendary café. 

The founder, Rashid Kohinoor was quick to introduce the Indian flavours as soon as the British left and since then, the café has been run by succeeding generations of the family. Amidst this, it was the current owner Boman Kohinoor’s late wife, Bachan Kohinoor who can be credited for adding the Parsi touch to the regular menu. While Sali Chicken, Patra Ni Macchi and Dhansak were the usual suspects, it was the Berry pulao that was quite a sensation. The idea of making a rice-based dish like a pulao, where all ingredients are cooked separately, was a reflection of Iranian cooking. 

Iranians loved making a variety of pulaos and Zereshk berries were a common feature of most of them. However, there is no mention of Berry Pulao in the Iranian fare since berries are used in almost all types of pulaos. So, this leaves us to the point that the creation of Berry Pulao is actually Indian with Iranian influences. 

Served with tender pieces of chicken or mutton, carefully placed between the white fluffy rice, the pulao is finished off with berries, fried onions and cashews, making it a rich and wholesome affair. Interestingly, the secret recipe of the Berry Pulao masala continues to be safe with the family. 

Apart from this sweet and tangy pulao, here are some other yummy rice dishes you could try too. 

1. Zaffrani Pulao 

The bright-yellow colour of the pulao and the scent of saffron makes this Zaffrani Pulao a royal treat. 

2. Bengali-Style Veg Pulao 

This pulao uses a special type of gobhindobhog rice which is spruced up with vegetables and lots of dry fruits. 

3. Prawns Pulao 

If you love seafood, then you can replace your meat with prawns in the pulao. This flavourful prawns rice combination will satiate your appetite.