Desher Barir Durga Puja: The 650-Year-Old Rituals And Bhog
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Durga Puja holds a deep-rooted significance in Bengal, transcending religious boundaries to become a cultural emblem for Bengalis worldwide. This festival, marking the victory of Goddess Durga over the buffalo demon Mahishasura, embodies the spirit of good triumphing over evil. For the people of Bengal, Durga Puja is much more than just a religious celebration. It represents a rich blend of tradition, artistry, and community spirit passed down through generations. 

The grandeur of Kolkata’s iconic Pujas—such as Maddox Square, College Square, Suruchi Sangha, Santosh Mitra Square, Deshapriya Park, and many more—attracts millions of visitors each year. However, these well-known pandals in Kolkata are just one part of the grand tradition of Durga Puja. Throughout Bengal, particularly in rural areas, there are lesser-known traditional Pujas, some of which are more than 300 years old. These pujas, rooted in ancestral customs, are often conducted with the same dedication and rituals followed for centuries.

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Equally significant to the festival is the food or pujor bhog, offered as a sacred meal to the deity and then distributed among the devotees. The connection between Durga Puja and food in Bengal is inseparable. For Bengalis, no Puja celebration is complete without savouring traditional Bengali cuisine. From delectable bhog to local delicacies, the festival brings forth a gastronomical experience that is pure and wholesome. The emphasis on home-cooked, pure Bengali dishes during the festive period is a culinary journey, offering a rare opportunity to enjoy simple yet rich flavours.

Desher Barir Durga Pujo Rituals And The Bhog

Image Credit: Shankha Bhattacharyya

Among the most intriguing of these traditional celebrations is the Durga Puja held by the Bhattacharyya family in Arambagh, Hooghly. Known locally as "Bhatchaj Barir Pujo," this puja has been celebrated for more than 650 years, making it one of the oldest surviving Durga Pujas in Bengal. 

The family members themselves conduct the Puja. Mr. Manoj Kumar Bhattacharyya (Tantra Sadhak) and Mr. Nitai Chandra Bhattacharyya (Thakurmoshai) have been taking care of all the rituals for the past three decades. The Puja’s uniqueness lies in its rituals and, most notably, its bhog, which differs from typical offerings seen elsewhere. Explore the key aspects of this traditional Durga Puja.

Chaturbhuja Durga: The Four-Handed Idol

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Unlike the ten-handed Maa Durga, the norm in most Pujas, the Bhattacharyya family worships a four-handed Durga idol called Chaturbhuja. This subtle difference in the depiction of the goddess is deeply connected to the family’s ancestral practices. 

The regal yet minimalist image of Durga in this form symbolises the family’s devotion to their distinct version of the goddess. The idol remains the focal point of all the rituals, and each offering and prayer revolves around her four-armed form, which sets this Puja apart from the usual grand celebrations in Kolkata.

Manoj Kumar Bhattacharyya added, “We do not follow the traditional Chandipath, but during every bhog offering, The family members, Nitai Da and I move around Devi Durga idol three times”. This specific ritual is named Devi porikroma in Bengali culture.

The Fish Offering On Shashthi

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The bhog at Bhatchaj Barir Pujo begins on Shashthi, the sixth day of the festival. Here, fish plays an important role in the offerings. A large fish (preferably Katla) is offered to Maa Durga as part of the ritualistic meal, signifying the bond between the goddess and the local community’s food culture

While fish is usually absent from most Puja offerings, its inclusion here reflects the deeply ingrained Bengali culinary traditions and the family’s unique interpretation of what constitutes a sacred offering. The bhog includes Rice (Anno), shakbhaja, sukto along with the fish. 

One of the young family members, Shankha Bhattacharyya expressed, “Fish is a must for our offerings to Maa Durga. This ritual is maintained starting from Sashthi and ends with Visarjana. Being a traditional Ghoti, we all enjoy fish a lot during the Puja.”

Paramanna And Banana Fritters: The Traditional Sweets

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One of the distinctive features of the bhog during this Puja is the Paramanna, a sweet rice pudding known more commonly as Payesh in Bengali households. Adding Banana fritter is a special addition to the sweet dish. This is also a part of the rituals. 

The fusion of the creamy rice pudding with the delicate flavour of fried bananas brings a subtle sweetness and texture to the bhog, making it a dish that stands out from the regular offerings seen during other Pujas. This unique combination has been a tradition for centuries in the Bhattacharyya household.

Gobindobhog Rice Naivedya On Ashtami

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On the auspicious day of Ashtami, the family prepares Naivedya, an offering that consists of 20 kilograms of Gobindobhog rice. This aromatic rice is cooked with the utmost care, maintaining the balance between flavour and purity. The simplicity of the dish reflects the family’s devotion and respect for tradition. 

This preparation of rice is considered sacred and is offered with fruits and sweets during the Pushpanjali (flower offerings). The space for the puja is filled with the smell of Gobindobhog rice, which adds a sensory element to the already deeply spiritual experience.

Sandhi Puja Sacrifices: A Ritual Of Symbolic Offerings

Image Credit: Shankha Bhattacharyya

During the transition from Ashtami to Nabami, the Sandhi Puja ritual is performed. Traditionally, animal sacrifices were part of this ritual in many parts of Bengal, but the Bhattacharyyas’ Puja has shifted to a more symbolic offering. In place of animal sacrifices, sugarcane, white gourd, and bananas are offered to the goddess.

Nabami Bhog Arati And The Ritual Of Balidan

On Nabami, the Bhog Arati is a highlight. The arati marks a time when the family offers various dishes to the goddess, signifying the end of the main Puja rituals. The Balidan ritual, or the act of sacrifice, continues during this time, but, like during Sandhi Puja, only vegetarian offerings are made. These include sugarcane and banana, symbolising abundance and purity.

Annapurna Puja: Durga And Rice

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The Annapurna aspect of this Puja is reflected in the central role that rice plays in the bhog. Known as Annabhog, rice is the primary offering made to the goddess, earning this Puja the name of Annapurna Puja. Every meal prepared during this Puja revolves around this staple, underscoring the importance of rice in the Bengali way of life and its spiritual customs.

Dashami: The Conclusion With Narayana Bhog

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The Puja concludes with the Visarjana ritual on Dashami, where the idol is immersed in a nearby water body. However, the immersion at Bhattacharyyas’ Puja happens in the afternoon, earlier than the evening rituals seen in other parts of Bengal. After the immersion, the family distributes Narayana Bhog among their members and invitees. This final offering consists of rice, lentils, and vegetables, marking the end of the festivities and a return to everyday life.

Manoj Bhattacharyya shared, “It is a ritual of our family that the neighbouring village locals would help us during the Visarjana time. This has been maintained since the beginning, and we also do the same. They are cordially invited, and the whole Visarjana thing is a celebration for us.”

Image Credit: Shankha Bhattacharyya

The Bhattacharyyas' Durga Puja in Arambagh offers a rare glimpse into Bengal's history, culture, and culinary heritage. With unique rituals, sacred offerings, and a deep connection to food, this Puja serves as a reminder of how tradition evolves while keeping its essence intact.