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It was 6 am. In an hour I would be appearing for an exam about Media Law but my friend had decided to help me run through some last-minute brushing up, over breakfast at Vig, a 75-year-old eatery in Chembur’s Camp area (also popularly known as Sindhi Camp). I’d like to believe that breaking the crisp Pakwan and scooping a portion of Chana Dal and savouring this combination slowly, helped me memorise my notes better.
Video Credit: Chef Ranveer Brar
Dal Pakwan is one of the most loved breakfast dishes in Sindhi cuisine, a tradition that brings together a combination of rich flavours and textures. The dish consists of crispy, deep-fried flatbreads (pakwan) served with a hearty bowl of spiced chana dal (split chickpea lentils). It is usually accompanied by tangy tamarind chutney, chopped onions, and green chillies making the dish a meal in itself.
One of my earliest memories of Dal Pakwan is waking up on Sunday mornings and heading to Jhama, an iconic sweet shop that has also been in Chembur Camp since the 1950s, to somehow manage to get a portion of Dal Pakhwan packed. In the early 90s Jhama sold Dal Pakhwan only on Sunday mornings. They would open at 7 am and by 10 am they were completely sold out. My mother would allow us to indulge in this Sunday treat only if we made the effort to go get it ourselves.
Back then I had no idea that I would marry into a Sindhi family and would have access to this childhood favourite which I still absolutely love. My mom-in-law who looks for alternate healthy ingredients to make most dishes, has effectively swapped the maida or all-purpose flour that is traditionally used to make the pakhwan with whole wheat flour. This version is delicious too. While the pakwan still needs to be deep-fried, these days it is also baked in calorie-conscious homes.
Photo Credit: Adobe Stock
History Of Dal Pakwan
Dal Pakwan's origins are deeply tied to the arid climate of Sindh, a region now in Pakistan known for its hot and dry weather. The unique conditions of the region influenced the way food was prepared and preserved, leading to practical innovations in Sindhi cuisine.
The pakwan, a crisp fried flatbread, was born out of necessity in Sindh’s desert-like environment, where fresh food couldn’t always be made daily due to limited water and agricultural resources. Instead of soft, perishable rotis, Sindhi households would often prepare large batches of dough, roll it into thin flatbreads, and fry them into crispy pakhwans. These dried pakwans would last much longer than regular rotis, making them an ideal choice for storage in a region where resources were scarce.
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The combination of pakwan with dal came about as a nourishing and sustainable meal. Chana dal (split chickpeas), a staple ingredient in Sindhi cooking, could be stored for long periods and easily cooked into a spiced lentil stew, perfect for pairing with the crisp pakwan. This combination was both filling and nutritious, providing the necessary energy to endure the harsh conditions of the Sindh region.
Apart from the harsh weather conditions in Sindh the community faced many hardships during the partition in 1947, where a large section of the community were forced to leave their homes and live in camps. While the Dal Pakwan has its roots traced back to Sindh, like many other Sindhi dishes, it made its way to India after the partition in 1947, when the Sindhi community migrated.
The Sindhi diaspora carried its culinary heritage with pride, and Dal Pakwan became a hallmark of its rich food culture. This dish, traditionally served on special occasions, Sunday breakfasts, or as a celebratory meal, symbolises the resilience and adaptability of Sindhi cuisine in the changing social landscape of post-partition India.
Over the years the dish became a reflection of the adaptability of Sindhi cuisine, rooted in the need for food that could withstand the challenges of the environment. Today, while the context has changed, the dish remains a cherished part of Sindhi food culture, celebrated for its flavour and historical significance.
Sindhi Food In Ulhasnagar And Chembur
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Ulhasnagar, a bustling township near Mumbai, has a large Sindhi population. After the partition, thousands of Sindhis arrived in India as refugees, many settling in what was originally a military camp. This makeshift settlement grew into a thriving community, and with it, the food culture of Sindh flourished. Ulhasnagar, today, is a treasure trove of authentic Sindhi food, where eateries serve traditional dishes that have been passed down through generations.
In Ulhasnagar, Dal Pakwan is especially popular and readily available at numerous roadside stalls and small eateries, often enjoyed by locals as a breakfast delicacy. What makes the experience in Ulhasnagar unique is the authenticity and the sense of tradition surrounding the preparation of dishes. From the texture of the pakwan to the precise balance of spices in the dal, the culinary legacy of Sindh is preserved with care.
Chembur, a suburban area of Mumbai, also has a significant Sindhi population and is often considered a cultural hub for Sindhi migrants. Chembur’s Sindhi Colony and Sindhi Camp were some of the first major settlements for Sindhi refugees post-partition. With time, it transformed into a locality known for its Sindhi community, culture, and, of course, food.
Sindhi cuisine in Chembur has also thrived, especially through small family-run restaurants and roadside vendors that serve traditional Sindhi food. Places like Vig Refreshments and Jhama Sweets and Sindh Panipuri have become iconic spots for enjoying authentic Sindhi fare.
The role of food in preserving Sindhi identity is evident in these areas. Community festivals, gatherings, and weddings often highlight the traditional fare, ensuring that the younger generation remains connected to their roots.
