Coronation Afternoon Tea: How The British Tradition Evolved
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For the United Kingdom, the Commonwealth and, in fact, the whole world, the upcoming coronation of King Charles III is a major event. Whether you support the British monarchy or believe that their history is too steeped in colonialism and exploitation, the fact is that the institution has had a huge impact on culinary cultures across the globe. From the British adopting Indian foods to Indians adopting British food traditions, the culinary cultural exchange has been significant. The concept of afternoon tea is a part of this cultural exchange. 

In fact, even as the British public and tabloids are increasingly focusing on the coronation ceremonies for Charles III, many coronation-themed afternoon tea parties are also being announced. From the Cellarium Café and Terrace at Westminster Abbey to Grosvenor House, historic London restaurants and eateries have come out with coronation-themed afternoon tea services that include tributes to both the new king and the late Queen Elizabeth II. This has, naturally, fanned the curiosity about what afternoon tea is and its rich history.  

Video credit: YouTube/Lisa's Lemony Kitchen

If you are interested in the evolution of afternoon tea as a culinary tradition, then read on to find out more about it. 

The Birth Of A Tea Ritual 

It all started with an aristocratic woman called Anna Maria Russell, the Duchess of Bedford, who was a close friend of Queen Victoria’s. She had even served in the queen’s household as a Lady of the Bedchamber between 1837 and 1841 and was believed to be a high-flying member of British society. Legend has it that one day, the Duchess complained that she was “having that sinking feeling” around 4PM every afternoon that we today describe as hunger pangs for an evening snack. She didn’t want a full and heavy meal, just some small bites with tea to satiate her cravings. 

And from this very basic need was born the ritual of afternoon tea around 4PM that would include tea, finger sandwiches with clotted cream, and small cakes. The Duchess’ household saw this as a private affair at her home, Woburn Abbey. But by the 1880s, the tradition of afternoon tea had evolved into something that British aristocrats would follow to the “tea”. Upper-class and society women would change into gowns, gloves and hats specifically for the afternoon tea, which would be served between 4PM and 5PM every day. 

Soon, the afternoon tea affair shifted to gardens during pleasant summer evenings and members of British society residing in the colonies like India also picked up the practice. The concept of having afternoon tea with small snacks, preferably presented in tiered cake stands, became a hallmark of British social gatherings in cities like Calcutta and Simla. Is this where Indians also picked up the habit of having tea with snacks (desi snacks and not British ones, of course) around 4PM-5PM every day? Or is that habit more rooted in the more labour-class oriented practice of high tea? Only historians can tell. 

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Afternoon Tea Essentials: Things You Need 

Today, afternoon tea has evolved into a quick, small, must-have meal between lunch and dinner. Whether you do it keeping the coronation in mind or simply want to have a little tea party at home, presenting an afternoon tea to guests can be an utter joy. What you have to keep in mind is the practice of having three small courses for afternoon tea: 

First course – A variety of light, finger sandwiches featuring cucumber, chicken, eggs and smoked salmon. Coronation chicken sandwiches are a must-have in this course. 

Second course – Savoury and sweet scones with clotted cream, jam and marmalade. Battenberg cake, associated with the Mountbatten family, is also served in this or the third course. 

Third course – Slices of Victoria sponge and French small desserts called petit fours. Today, cupcakes and macarons are also served in this course. 

Beverage – A variety of teas, including Assam and Darjeeling, are offered along with infused tea varieties.  

While these are the foods served during afternoon tea, there are other essentials that are also a must. The most important ones are, of course, a cake stand with three tiers to present the three courses and a formal tea set. Plenty of small plates and napkins—preferably cloth ones to reflect the vintage nature of the event—are a must. If you can get lace doilies or placemats, then even better. Place cards designating where your guests can sit also add a bit of British high society formality to the event. Instead of bare tables, get good tablecloths to highlight the food and tea.